How to rig a shock leader

[rockhopper]

Lost too many plugs this year tied to #15 mono. Everyone I talk to gives me different advice, some are like you gotta wind it down on the reel, some say make it 2 feet long. So what is it?

[hookset]

I often had the same question. Anyone have the answer?

[DarkSkies]

This is what I do: 12' stick it can be up to 36". On a 9 or 10' stick, I like em around 24". For the spring days when I'm throwing big pencils off the rocks, I like one closer to 36".

When the sumer pattern sets up, I'll use teasers more. I usually clip on a pre-made teaser rig that's anywhere from 14-18" long. I like the 24" length then because I can be a little lazy and just clip on the teaser to my shock leader using a breakaway clip. Love those breakaway clips.

Also, use good quality snap swivels to connect the shock leader to your braid, and check your knots twice. I don't want the heartbreak of losing a big fish to knot or tackle failure. :embarassed:

[JakeF]

A "shock" leader and a regular leader such as DS described are 2 different things, for 2 different purposes.

The purpose of a true shock leader is to absorb the strain of the cast when casting heavier weights. The strain the weight you're casting puts on your line is multiplied many times during the momentum of the cast. The main line may be prone to snapping under this increased strain, especially if it's a no-stretch braid or a low test mono. This is where the "Shock" leader comes into play. The shock leader is usually a higher test length of mono, tied to your main line with a low profile knot that can easily pass through the guides (like an Alberto knot). The shock leader should be long enough to be wrapped around your spool a few times during the cast. This way the ENTIRE strain of the cast is being handled by the shock leader, NOT your main line. With some high power casts like a pendulum cast or a Hatteras cast, the stretch of the shock leader can also improve casting distance (vs. straight braid) as it loads along with the rod to slingshot your weight.

A regular leader, such as DS described, does not serve the same purpose as a true "shock" leader. It is there for abrasion resistance and decreased visibility, and depending on where/how you're fishing relatively short lengths can be effective. :thumbsup:

[JakeF]

Due to the fact that most of my fishing is plugging/jigging/eeling around sharp jagged rocks & reefs, not casting heavy weight-&-bait, the use of a true shock leader is not necessary for me. However, I still use a longer than average flourocarbon leader, tied direct to the main line with an Alberto knot, for the following reasons:

1. The abrasion resistance of flourocarbon is higher than my braided main line, so when I have a fish on and she's swimming between the rocks, I want plenty of abrasion resistance in length of line that has the highest risk of direct contact with the rocks.

2. I usually tie direct to my plugs/jigs instead of using a clip. If I start out the evening with 25 feet of flouro on the end of my braid, through the course of the night I've got plenty of room for the leader to be shortened through retying, cutting out scuffed sections, etc. and still be a decent length by the time I'm done fishing, without having to stop and tie on a whole new leader to my main line.

3. Casting is more comfortable with your finger on 40lb test flouro, than 30lb test Fireline, and you don't have to worry about the braid slicing your hand as you grab it to land a fish.

With an 11' rod, I'll start out with a 25' leader (just over twice the length of the rod) and replace it when it gets too short to have my finger on the leader when I'm casting.

But,,,, that's just how I prefer to do it for where I fish. If I were fishing sandy beaches I'd use a finger guard and a shorter leader, but in the rocks and reefs here a longer leader has saved me from being cut off while bringing in large fish more times than I can count.

[mick2360]

Jake, That was great information. Thanks for a useful post. :thumbsup:

[vpass]

Right on. Great reply Jake. :thumbsup:

On my light rod that I use for fluke. I use 6 pound test. I use an albright or alberto, (I foget The name of the knot that I'm using) to tie on 10 pound test about 9 feet long. I shoot for enough line to wrap around the spool twice. It works great for lighter lines. On my plugging stick I do the same thing that Dark does. I use 30 pound Power Pro on my plugging stick. I havent lost a Plug from cast in more the 5 years.