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cowherder
09-24-2008, 01:59 PM
This guy, Ken Legge of Noreast, wrote some great stuff about bombers and darters. I learned more in this article than I could have in a year of plugging. Hope it's ok to post, great article Ken.:clapping:


Swimmers In The Surf
by Ken Legge


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http://www.noreast.com/images/blank.gif

In this article I focus my attention on Bombers and Darters. I find that these two lures are so productive along our shorelines, back bays, harbors and inlets that they deserve some attention.


BOMBERS AND DARTERS, THE BASICS

So let's kick this off and talk about a lure you will always find in my surf bag both day and night, the Long-A Bomber. The lure is simple to use, extremely versatile and will drive a hungry bass or bluefish crazy. Even if they are not hungry, the allure of easy prey is one they cannot resist. If bass or blues are in the area you are fishing and are on the feed, a Bomber will get their attention for sure. The Bomber will imitate just about anything. I have caught some nice fish when there was bunker, spearing or sand eels in the area. My preference is to use these lures during the night tides, but under certain conditions they are effective during the day. Bombers work best in moving water and I focus their use almost exclusively where current is a factor.

Bombers come in several sizes, styles and colors and I will talk more about colors later. The A-Salt is a two hook 5.75-inch lure at 1 ounce; the Long-16A has three hooks and is 6 inches long at 7/8 ounce and the Long-17A is 7 inches long and weighs in at 1.5 ounces. Bomber produces both solid and jointed body styles. My favorites are the solid models as they have out produced the jointed bodies for me, but the action on a jointed model is incredible. They just released a new line of swimmers called the windcheater that I will be testing this summer and fall.

I go with the A-Salt when the baitfish is smaller in size such as spearing or small sand eels. The A-Salt swims about a foot deeper than the Long-A so if the fish are feeding a little lower in the water column then the A-Salt should be used. If the baitfish are longer in profile then go with a Long-16A but if you need a little more casting distance the 17A will get the job done nicely. The Long-16A and 17 will dive between 2 to 3 feet and the A-Salt dives between 3 - 4 feet. Experiment a bit and you will find one to match the conditions you are fishing along with bait patterns in the area.

So let's talk about another one of my go-to lures, the Darter. The Darter is another versatile and deadly lure that I use mostly at night and always in current driven water. I find that a Darter is useless in non-moving water, as it does not have the action needed to attract a bite.

Darters and inlets are like peas and carrots, they just work well together. Darters have become very popular with the Montauk surf crowd and over time spread along the eastern seaboard where others found them to work wonders on very large bass. I never make the trek to Montauk or to any inlet with moving water without several sizes and shapes in my bag. My go-to darters are Gibbs, Super Strike, Tattoo's and YoZuri Mag which all come in various colors. Each does a very good job depending on the environment you fish. Super Strike makes a plastic slender body version at just shy of 7 inches long at 2 3/8-ounce. Gibbs makes a similar style out of wood in 6 3/8 inch and 5-inch at 1.5 ounces and 1 5/8 ounces respectively. I find these work best when the current is moving nicely and when the fish are hitting closer to the top of the water column as they dive between 2 and 3 feet. I think thin profile bait for either lure when fishing these particular Darters. Tattoo's makes a fatter 2 and 3 ounce version that I will use when the adult bunker are in thick. With all that said I couldn't forget about the YoZuri Mag Darter, which tends to be a go to Darter for me on the north shore of Long Island. I prefer the mackerel green color and black as both produce very well for me. The YoZuri swims like a blend of a Darter and Bomber due to its lip and body design. The patented Mag System helps with casting distance and adds an underwater noise factor when twitched which helps tick off a non-aggressive fish. The Mag Darter I use is a 5-inch, 1-ounce lure.


LIKE IT OR NOT COLOR MATTERS

Ok, here is where the opinions get mixed. There are many published articles on the topic of lure color and I speak with many anglers who all have their preference, but I will tell you that in all my years of working both Bombers and Darters, color matters. What I have proven is that on dark nights with new or a late rising moon, or a cloud covered night sky, that black and blurple (black and purple combo colors) tend to capture the eye of bass and blues. During the full moon tides or on any bright evening, I go strictly with white or yellows. I have found that yellow is the most versatile and if I could only have one color in my bag it would be yellow. Yellow tends to work during either period but dark colors only work with any sense of consistency when it is really dark out. Since I am not a scientist or marine biologist, I will save myself the embarrassment in trying to explain the eye color spectrum of striped bass. All I know is that there is a whole lot of opinion on this topic and all I can add to it is my personal experience. I also like the red head Bombers and the Mag Darters with white body and red head. They too would be used during a bright night.

http://www.noreast.com/magazineIssues/photos/2501.jpg
On the right are my favorite Bombers and on the left some classic Darters.

cowherder
09-24-2008, 02:00 PM
DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES PROVEN TO WORK

Sometimes I feel technique is overcomplicated and a simple approach works best. I typically start with a steady, slow retrieve on most lures in my bag then mix it up until I find what works. For me it's like dancing, if I get on the dance floor and start bouncing around people look at me funny…well, they always look at me funny on a dance floor, but if I start out slow, watch what everybody else is doing then I become part of the crowd.

With Bombers there are several ways to swim this lure, and it all starts with the cast. After you cast the Bomber and it hits the water, I like to "dig it in" by using a long fast sweep of the rod or take several fast cranks of the reel to ensure it dives into its range and starts to swim properly. You will know it's swimming correctly when you feel the vibration on your rod tip. If you don't then there is a good chance it landed in weed or got tangled during the toss. I like to keep my rod tip just above parallel to the water that allows me to feel the swimmer’s action and give me a full hook setting swing for what might be a very subtle strike.

Presentation with a Bomber is very important based on experience and my observations of others. My go to technique is to reel in the Bomber very slow; I mean VERY slow, just fast enough to feel the pulse of the lure on your rod tip. With this approach there is no twitching or any other movement of the rod unless the fish are playing hard to get. I always tell people, that slow and steady wins the race with Bombers and I have out fished other anglers 5 to 1 because they were reeling too fast. If that technique is not producing any interest of the fish, then I will use a technique, which has worked very well for my fishing buddy Danny J., that is a sweep and stop approach. Here you crank the reel very slow and every few turns make a steady sweep of the rod as if a predator is chasing the bait, then stop for a second, suspend the lure as if it is tired and hold on for a strike. If you don't get a hit then start the process over again. My final technique is what I call "stemming the tide". This is where I cast cross current into a fast moving channel and I only crank in the lure to remove any slack in the line. As the lure gets pulled down current it will start doing its magic without any assistance other than some minor reel cranks to adjust position of the lure. I like to let it sit and "stem" the tide just swimming in a stationary position. This works really well if you are in a channel that you can safely wade out a little and hold the lure in one place down current for a minute or two. Saves the casting shoulder for sure and I have had some nice fish using this approach.

Many people modify their Bombers to either increase hook strength or improve casting range. The only modification I do to my Bombers is to remove the factory treble hooks and change them over to the same size hook with a 4X strong VMC hook. I don't believe the factory hooks are all that bad, but what I think goes wrong is what I call "the prying factor". Depending on how the fish hits the lure, some portion of the Bomber may lay along side the fish and the force you need to apply puts a lot of pressure on the hook, this is where the extra hook strength will help. Don't feel this is fool proof as I have seen a 4X strong hook bend from this same factor. There are several good articles and discussion board topics out there that will explain how to "load" your Bomber, but again, I just don't feel the need to do it. If I need a longer casting swimmer I go to the Darter.

Working a Darter is very similar to my approach with a Bomber. The one significant difference is that I twitch the rod during every three or four cranks of the reel during the retrieve to make the Darter do what it is designed to do and that is "dart", hence the name.

cowherder
09-24-2008, 02:02 PM
Swimmers In The Surf
by Ken Legge


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http://www.noreast.com/images/blank.gif

CHOOSE YOUR GEAR WISELY

Gear selection is really going to make or break your day with a Bomber. Using a Lamiglas GSB1321M or Super Surf 10MHS is not the way to go with these light lures. Sure when I am tossing the 2 and 3-oz Darters these two rods happen to be what I use and the perfect choice. I match these rods with a Zee Baas or a classic Penn 706Z series reel. In my opinion the 706Z was one of the best surf reels ever made. When they were in production the 704Z and 706Z was reasonably priced and self-serviceable reel. I also like Zee Baas for the same self-service reason. Go with a Zee Baas or a Van Staal 250 or 275 if you will dunk the reel in salt-water as they have been designed for rough surf and are fully waterproof. My only real complaint with the older Penn 706Z reels is the coffee grinder effect that happens when sand enters the spool when dunking. If you have a bottle of fresh water, a quick rinse makes it a short problem.

My go-to rod in the Bomber world is a 9-foot Lamiglas MB-1083 fiberglass blank that Stan at Rocky Point Fishing Stop built for me. This rod will allow you to cast these light lures with a vengeance and when you dig the lure in, there will be no mistake that it is swimming correctly. The rod blank is very light in comparison to fiberglass rods of yesteryear and the arch when you set the hook and fight a fish is an incredible sight. If you use a 9 or 10-foot medium or light, fast-action graphite rod you will also do fine. As for reels, there are a myriad of choices and just make sure it has the cranking power to land a large bass. A good drag system is critical here as you may need to get the fish out of any rock structure in a hurry or you can say farewell to that nice bass you wanted a photo of and maybe your lure. I use a Quantum PT40 reel and is a perfect match for my 9-footer and was reasonably priced. I have had it on my rod for three years now and have had no issues at all with annual service. I spool this reel with 20-pound Power Pro braided line and it has yet to let me down. The lighter line also assists with your casting distance with these light lures. I have no wind knot problems to speak of and I find the line has been very consistent for my purpose. I add a 30 or 50-pound fluorocarbon leader depending on several variables. If bluefish are around go with 50-pound leaders to help save your lure, no guarantee, but a little extra helps. When I fish a jetty I will use the 60-pound leader that is at least 4 feet long to allow me some room to grab the leader and not the braid when lifting my fish and to provide some rock abrasion resistance. You lower your risk of cutting deep into a hand or finger if the fish gets a last minute burst of energy when holding mono or fluorocarbon. On an open beach I will use 40-pound leaders about 3 feet in length. You can tie direct to the lure but for convenience of changing up, I use a 75-pound duo-lock snap. To connect my leader to the main line I use a SPRO 130-pound barrel connector. This sounds heavy, but SPRO has such a small footprint in their barrel swivels that a little extra

dogfish
10-18-2008, 04:35 PM
Good read, thanks for posting.:clapping:

wish4fish
10-18-2008, 05:50 PM
orange magdarter rules under the lights.:thumbsup:

storminsteve
12-07-2008, 02:44 PM
"slow and steady wins the race with bombers" http://stripersandanglers.com/Forum/images/icons/icon3.gif

porgy75
06-29-2010, 07:03 PM
Very thorough, I learned a lot from that. Thanks for sharing.

skinner
06-29-2010, 07:05 PM
What he said, yellow is a great color for lighted or lighthouse areas.