strikezone31
05-04-2009, 08:28 AM
THE CONCEPT OF AERATION
There are many misconceptions about aeration systems.
Two common fallacies are:
Large live wells are required to sustain a large quantity of fish.
Large live well pumps are needed to move large quantities of water through the live well to keep live bait and fish alive.
To understand what is really needed for proper aeration, it is best to take a parallel look at ourselves and fish.
HUMANS ILLUSTRATION
If we were enclosed in a large airtight room we would be able to breathe for many hours before we would consume all the oxygen.
If we were in an airtight closet, the oxygen would be consumed a lot quicker.
If we were swimming underwater without a snorkel, the oxygen in our lungs would be consumed very quickly.
In all cases, without additional oxygen we would eventually expire!
However, we could stay alive indefinitely, if we could use a breathing tube or snorkel that was in contact with outside fresh air or oxygen. It would not matter about the size of the container or the quality or air that surrounded us.
FISH ILLUSTRATION
If we enclosed a fish in a sealed, 1,000 gallon tank, it would survive for a long time before consuming all the oxygen.
If we enclosed the same fish in a sealed 10 gallon tank, the oxygen would be consumed more quickly.
If we removed the same fish from the tank and placed it on a table, the fish could live for an extremely short time.
In all cases, without additional oxygen the fish would eventually die.
However, our fish could stay alive indefinitely if we could put oxygenated water through its gills and keep it wet. It would not matter about the size of the tank.
SIZE OF AERATORS AND SNORKELS
FACTS
It is more difficult to breathe through a straw than through a large snorkel.
A small or ineffective aerator cannot provide as much oxygen in the water as a larger or more effective one.
If an aerator can provide enough oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe, it doesn't matter how much water surrounds the fish! The only reason that water must be changed occasionally in live wells is to remove ammonia. The smaller the container of water, the more frequent the changing.
BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF AERATION
There are two major considerations in aeration.
1. The gentleness and direction of water flow
2. The size and amount of the air bubbles
3. The temperature of the water
GENTLENESS AND DIRECTION OF WATER FLOW
FISH THAT SWIM IN SCHOOLS
Delicate bait such as shad, green-backs and croakers will not survive a day of fishing unless the water flow in the well is soft and gentle. Turbulent water will damage the bait and force them to work against the current. Ideal water flow within the well should be approximately 1 to 2 MPH, and in a circular motion. This will allow fish to school and provide a smooth flow of water over and through their gills. If the water flow is excessive, bait tire quickly and will not be lively. Keep water flow as low as possible, with fish swimming in a stationary position within the tank.
SHRIMP AND FISH THAT DO NOT SCHOOL
Species that do not school do not need a circular or oval container. Keep water flow to a minimum for fish such as bass, redfish, crappie, bream, and walleye.
For shrimp, provide material in the well so they can cling and not be swirling about the well and become damaged. Leave a dip net in the well, or tie a stone in a piece of cloth such as burlap
SIZE AND AMOUNT OF AIR BUBBLES
Take a look at at the air bubbles produced by an aquarium aerator. Watch how quickly the bubbles rise to the surface. They provide little aeration, but are aesthetically pleasing to watch. Bubbles must remain contacting the water, if they are to do the job properly. A good rule of thumb is: The smaller the bubble, the longer it will remain suspended in water to dissolve.
WATER TEMPERATURES
The warmer the water, the less oxygen it will hold. Fish will deplete the oxygen quicker as the water warms, and poor aerators will maintain less fish. Colder water will hold more oxygen. Water frozen in a plastic bottle will lower temperatures and keep the chlorine out of the tank.
Use an aquarium thermometer to compare temperatures. Keep temperatures within eight degrees Fahrenheit between water in the well, and water outside the boat.
CAUTION: Placing fish in different temperatures quickly will shock and kill them. It is best to place fish in the same water and temperatures where they were caught.
LIVEWELLS
Livewells come in many shapes and sizes. Oval or round tanks provide the best circulation. However, rectangular or square wells are satisfactory if there is a directional discharge into the well. The directional discharge will induce the more desirable circular motion.
Species that do not school, do not need a circular or oval container. Keep water flow to a minimum for fish such as bass, redfish, crappie, bream and walleye. They do not need a water flow for survival.
For shrimp, provide material in the well so they can cling and not be swirling about the well and become damaged. Leave a dip net in the well or tie a stone in a piece of cloth such as burlap.
AIR VERSUS OXYGEN
Oxygen will maintain higher quantities of fish, but extra care must be taken when using pure oxygen. To understand the fundamentals or air versus oxygen, each should be individually discussed.
AIR
A human breathes in oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide (CO2). The CO2 is then dissipated into the atmosphere.
A fish breathes in oxygen from the water and gives off CO2. The CO2 is absorbed into the surrounding water. The CO2 is then dissipated into the atmosphere through the process of aeration.
An air bubble as it passes through water has the ability to put oxygen into the water and also absorb CO2 as it passes slowly to the surface. The bubble then pops at the surface and the CO2 is dissipated into the atmosphere. The smaller the bubble, the longer it remains in the water to exchange oxygen and CO2.
OXYGEN
An oxygen bubble will insert a higher percentage of oxygen into water than a normal air bubble. This allows for higher quantities of fish in a given size of container, or it will make bait fish lively. However, an oxygen bubble does not have the ability to absorb CO2. As the fish eliminates CO2 in it’s body, there will be a build-up of CO2 in the livewell water. When the percentage of CO2 equals that of the fish, the fish will be unable to expel the CO2 and absorb the enriched oxygenated water. If a closed livewell does not have the ability to aerate and remove the CO2, the fish will suffocate.
CAUTION: TOO MUCH OXYGEN WILL KILL YOUR FISH!
SPRAY BAR AERATORS
Spray bar aerators add oxygen to the water by jetting small streams of water into the surface. Some air is absorbed into the spray as it passes from the spray bar to the water surface, and when the spray strikes the water surface, air bubbles are injected into the water. For the most part, these bubbles are rather large.
Jets of water from spray bars are generally harsh to delicate bait. Their protective coating and scales are easily removed, and their survival is drastically reduced.
Spray bars are an inefficient aeration system, and should be used only on the hardiest bait.
AIR STONE AERATORS
Air stone aerators are an inexpensive way to keep bait alive in small containers. They are quiet and gentle, but because their bubbles are typically larger, they need a greater amount of bubbles for a large amount of bait.
Air stone aerators do provide gentle aeration, but they sustain less bait per unit of air than aerators that produce smaller bubbles.
VENTURI AERATORS
This is the much copied, old aeration technology. They can be purchased as a floating aerator or a bottom aerator with suction cups.
The fast-moving water at the output of the pump creates a vacuum, which suck air into the pump output. This system typically provides larger amounts of smaller air bubbles than previously discussed aerators.
Some models damage bait due to the high speed of water from the pump output.
http://www.jerrylabella.com/live_bait_well_system_facts.htm
There are many misconceptions about aeration systems.
Two common fallacies are:
Large live wells are required to sustain a large quantity of fish.
Large live well pumps are needed to move large quantities of water through the live well to keep live bait and fish alive.
To understand what is really needed for proper aeration, it is best to take a parallel look at ourselves and fish.
HUMANS ILLUSTRATION
If we were enclosed in a large airtight room we would be able to breathe for many hours before we would consume all the oxygen.
If we were in an airtight closet, the oxygen would be consumed a lot quicker.
If we were swimming underwater without a snorkel, the oxygen in our lungs would be consumed very quickly.
In all cases, without additional oxygen we would eventually expire!
However, we could stay alive indefinitely, if we could use a breathing tube or snorkel that was in contact with outside fresh air or oxygen. It would not matter about the size of the container or the quality or air that surrounded us.
FISH ILLUSTRATION
If we enclosed a fish in a sealed, 1,000 gallon tank, it would survive for a long time before consuming all the oxygen.
If we enclosed the same fish in a sealed 10 gallon tank, the oxygen would be consumed more quickly.
If we removed the same fish from the tank and placed it on a table, the fish could live for an extremely short time.
In all cases, without additional oxygen the fish would eventually die.
However, our fish could stay alive indefinitely if we could put oxygenated water through its gills and keep it wet. It would not matter about the size of the tank.
SIZE OF AERATORS AND SNORKELS
FACTS
It is more difficult to breathe through a straw than through a large snorkel.
A small or ineffective aerator cannot provide as much oxygen in the water as a larger or more effective one.
If an aerator can provide enough oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe, it doesn't matter how much water surrounds the fish! The only reason that water must be changed occasionally in live wells is to remove ammonia. The smaller the container of water, the more frequent the changing.
BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF AERATION
There are two major considerations in aeration.
1. The gentleness and direction of water flow
2. The size and amount of the air bubbles
3. The temperature of the water
GENTLENESS AND DIRECTION OF WATER FLOW
FISH THAT SWIM IN SCHOOLS
Delicate bait such as shad, green-backs and croakers will not survive a day of fishing unless the water flow in the well is soft and gentle. Turbulent water will damage the bait and force them to work against the current. Ideal water flow within the well should be approximately 1 to 2 MPH, and in a circular motion. This will allow fish to school and provide a smooth flow of water over and through their gills. If the water flow is excessive, bait tire quickly and will not be lively. Keep water flow as low as possible, with fish swimming in a stationary position within the tank.
SHRIMP AND FISH THAT DO NOT SCHOOL
Species that do not school do not need a circular or oval container. Keep water flow to a minimum for fish such as bass, redfish, crappie, bream, and walleye.
For shrimp, provide material in the well so they can cling and not be swirling about the well and become damaged. Leave a dip net in the well, or tie a stone in a piece of cloth such as burlap
SIZE AND AMOUNT OF AIR BUBBLES
Take a look at at the air bubbles produced by an aquarium aerator. Watch how quickly the bubbles rise to the surface. They provide little aeration, but are aesthetically pleasing to watch. Bubbles must remain contacting the water, if they are to do the job properly. A good rule of thumb is: The smaller the bubble, the longer it will remain suspended in water to dissolve.
WATER TEMPERATURES
The warmer the water, the less oxygen it will hold. Fish will deplete the oxygen quicker as the water warms, and poor aerators will maintain less fish. Colder water will hold more oxygen. Water frozen in a plastic bottle will lower temperatures and keep the chlorine out of the tank.
Use an aquarium thermometer to compare temperatures. Keep temperatures within eight degrees Fahrenheit between water in the well, and water outside the boat.
CAUTION: Placing fish in different temperatures quickly will shock and kill them. It is best to place fish in the same water and temperatures where they were caught.
LIVEWELLS
Livewells come in many shapes and sizes. Oval or round tanks provide the best circulation. However, rectangular or square wells are satisfactory if there is a directional discharge into the well. The directional discharge will induce the more desirable circular motion.
Species that do not school, do not need a circular or oval container. Keep water flow to a minimum for fish such as bass, redfish, crappie, bream and walleye. They do not need a water flow for survival.
For shrimp, provide material in the well so they can cling and not be swirling about the well and become damaged. Leave a dip net in the well or tie a stone in a piece of cloth such as burlap.
AIR VERSUS OXYGEN
Oxygen will maintain higher quantities of fish, but extra care must be taken when using pure oxygen. To understand the fundamentals or air versus oxygen, each should be individually discussed.
AIR
A human breathes in oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide (CO2). The CO2 is then dissipated into the atmosphere.
A fish breathes in oxygen from the water and gives off CO2. The CO2 is absorbed into the surrounding water. The CO2 is then dissipated into the atmosphere through the process of aeration.
An air bubble as it passes through water has the ability to put oxygen into the water and also absorb CO2 as it passes slowly to the surface. The bubble then pops at the surface and the CO2 is dissipated into the atmosphere. The smaller the bubble, the longer it remains in the water to exchange oxygen and CO2.
OXYGEN
An oxygen bubble will insert a higher percentage of oxygen into water than a normal air bubble. This allows for higher quantities of fish in a given size of container, or it will make bait fish lively. However, an oxygen bubble does not have the ability to absorb CO2. As the fish eliminates CO2 in it’s body, there will be a build-up of CO2 in the livewell water. When the percentage of CO2 equals that of the fish, the fish will be unable to expel the CO2 and absorb the enriched oxygenated water. If a closed livewell does not have the ability to aerate and remove the CO2, the fish will suffocate.
CAUTION: TOO MUCH OXYGEN WILL KILL YOUR FISH!
SPRAY BAR AERATORS
Spray bar aerators add oxygen to the water by jetting small streams of water into the surface. Some air is absorbed into the spray as it passes from the spray bar to the water surface, and when the spray strikes the water surface, air bubbles are injected into the water. For the most part, these bubbles are rather large.
Jets of water from spray bars are generally harsh to delicate bait. Their protective coating and scales are easily removed, and their survival is drastically reduced.
Spray bars are an inefficient aeration system, and should be used only on the hardiest bait.
AIR STONE AERATORS
Air stone aerators are an inexpensive way to keep bait alive in small containers. They are quiet and gentle, but because their bubbles are typically larger, they need a greater amount of bubbles for a large amount of bait.
Air stone aerators do provide gentle aeration, but they sustain less bait per unit of air than aerators that produce smaller bubbles.
VENTURI AERATORS
This is the much copied, old aeration technology. They can be purchased as a floating aerator or a bottom aerator with suction cups.
The fast-moving water at the output of the pump creates a vacuum, which suck air into the pump output. This system typically provides larger amounts of smaller air bubbles than previously discussed aerators.
Some models damage bait due to the high speed of water from the pump output.
http://www.jerrylabella.com/live_bait_well_system_facts.htm