View Full Version : English translation to Best of Spiningmania part one

05-01-2008, 09:36 PM
I would like to give a warm welcome to one of our newer members here, cbstres. :clapping: He is a very talented guy from Spain, who in addition to running his own website, has a great deal of knowledge in plug making and fabricating items for outdoorsmen and fishermen. :thumbsup:

When he first joined, there was some translation difficulty. I posted the "translating into another language/Babelfish" thread.

Little by little, we are trying to make sure his posts are understandable to you folks. This guy has a lot to offer, and has been instrumental in getting me to understand that we can all learn from each other, no matter what culture we come from.

Hopefully you can look forward to other informative posts like this in the future. Any members or guests have any connections to fishing sites in other languages, or suggestions how to make this better, I would be very grateful to hear feedback.

Finally, I wanted to extend my thanks to all who contribute here. I wish more of our members were less shy about posting, but that will come in time.

At this point, I would again like to ask some members who have registered but not yet posted, to take a chance and post! Some here have been fishing for a long time and are less conscious about posting. Others members, who may be new to fishing, may not feel like they have a lot to offer, or self conscious that they may say something stupid.

Let me assure you that there are no stupid questions here. If you want to contribute your opinion, or ask a question, chances are that many others have the same thought, but are too shy to post. So take a chance and post! I promise it's a painless process, and we can all learn from each other. :thumbsup:

Meanwhile, some people are becoming regular contributors, and are helping to make the site more colorful (although I have to admit some of you seem like pretty crazy characters, I would still fish with you in the dark of night).

You are all helping to make this a site worth coming to visit, more like the community I envisioned when I first started this. Many, many thanks to all for your posts, your feedback, and your participation.

You are all a great group of people, even the slightly disturbed ones. http://www.stripersandanglers.com/images/icons/icon10.gif ;)


OK, here is the translation, as done by Babelfish.

In the following post I am going to try to explain you as I carry out molds of an artificial lure and then re-create by means of polyurethane resin.

The fabrication of the mold is what is going to take us more time. Once done, making the the body of the artificial one will only take us a few minutes. With the same mold, we can do infinity of copies.

The first thing is to locate a composites-maker (that sell retail, clearcomposites). There is a business that sells throughout the country with store on line, in barely 24 h. we have the shipment at home. The business is called Feroca (http://www.feroca.com/). They have different products and a phone line to assist us.

We will need two products, silicone with catalyser to carry out the mold; and polyurethane resin to carry out the duplicates. With the resin one must take some minimum precautions of security, therefore always one must use gloves, mask and safety goggles. Also we should use it in places well aired, although is one of the types of resins that smell less.

It is a product that when quality metallic. One must read well the instructions of the manufacturer and the security precautions of these materials.

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/345/compositesep5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

The first thing is to prepare the mold. In a container we place the decoy that are going to copy. One must suspend it with wire so that no parts touch the walls, it should remain centered.

We prepare the silicone with the catalyser (agent of cured) and we pour it in the mold. We leave to dry 24 h.

Once it has dried, we cut the mold so that the artificial one remain in two halves. Better that one of the halves be slightly more large than the other, at the right moment to place the structure of wire. Fact this already we have the exterior mold. In the photo the elasticity of the once dry mold is shown, this will help us to remove the pieces.

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/6958/img1973600x450tw1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

Carry out holes, that is like the thing has grace, there is a very simple way and is to place him to the mold a layer of plastelina of some millimeters, we put some wires with some duplicities and we fill the space that remains in the plastelina with silicone, that will be the negative of the internal space of the artificial one. A new application of silicone obliges us to leave to dry 24 hours.

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/2255/img1974600x450ov2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8672/img1975600x450qr5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/9186/img1977600x450iu3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6126/img1978600x450mp6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/5743/img1980600x450cz0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

We withdraw the plastelina and already we have ready the mold to pour in it the resin. Once we prepare it, the mixture reacts to the 5 min. and begins a transformation, in 15 minutes the pieces already are ready to release from the mould and to mechanize.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/4529/img1981600x450pd3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/654/img1982600x450aw4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5263/img1985600x450bs0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

We withdraw the pieces that have come out with the aid of a box cutter when still is soft, we prepare the lodgings for the structure of wire. With steel wire we carry out the structure giving him form until it fits perfectly. We hit it with epoxy or some extra strong adhesive.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2077/img1988600x450iq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/4230/img1987600x450ik4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

For the rattles and the system of counterweights, here already the imagination will be our limit. We can use rattles of steel, leads, crystal…I like placing a screen that separate the rattles of the counterweights. As it is seen in the photo, the counterweights go loose so that they are displaced toward the front at the moment of the throw, this can extend a lot of the throws. In fishing, the counterweights are placed next to the forward triple and thus they carry out their function to balance to the decoy.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5002/img1992600x450ea4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

Finally we hit the two halves, we fill with putty if some hole remains us and we give a good sanding to all the edges, until any trace of edges disappears.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/3158/img1993600x450zn5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

And the final result, the resin accepts very well all kinds of decals and paintings.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/1476/img1939600x450bd5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

The same formula can be applied passers-by, poppers…also we can test with different thicknesses of the walls of the artificial one, playing thus with the bouyancy at the same one.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1094/img1884600x450ai4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

The resin has multitude of applications. I left the white/green unfinished so you can see the difference.

05-04-2008, 04:11 PM
Good job there, bunkerjose. cbstres, bienvenidos, great pics! (sorry how do you say nice pics in spanish?)http://www.stripersandanglers.com/images/icons/icon10.gif

05-05-2008, 01:43 AM
Very good translating. Dogfish, you say photos buenos.