plugcrazy
05-11-2010, 10:29 PM
KAYAK FISHING SAFETY
This is the most important subject related to kayak fishing. Lack of respect for the ocean will result in tragedy and ultimately, ones safety is a personal matter. Respect the water, don�t go beyond your skill level, and comfort zone, listen to that inner voice, dress for the water, for it is not if you fall in, but rather, when. With the intimacy of a kayak to the water comes the risk of ending up in the water. Think about this before you go out. How would it feel to be in 65, or 55, or even 45-degree water in sweat pants and a sweatshirt? What alternatives do you have to wear not only for flotation, but also for prevention of hypothermia? It's a real threat for a kayaker, even if you don't end up in the water. Water dripping off of yaks, subtle waves here and there over the sidewall all contribute to your getting wet. How will you get dry and how will you warm up again. Plan ahead. Waterproof clothing is a must. This coupled with a flotation system that will support your unconscious weight should an accident occur resulting in such. Will you be in a heads up position that gives you a fighting chance in a worst-case scenario that you are ejected from your kayak?
Float Plan: Before you go, have a float Plan. Look at the weather, the tides, and a chart of the area you intend to paddle. Figure out when and where you intend to leave and when you intend to return. Leave this information with someone, just incase you are late arriving. This way time will not be wasted looking for you somewhere else.
Personal Floatation Device (PFD): Probably the most important article one can have with them in a Kayak out on the ocean. Buy a good one; it may safe your life; and wear it at all times! Look for comfort, for if you are not comfortable in it, you won�t wear it. I like one with a high back that doesn�t interfere with my seat. Next, the Coast Guard requires that you have a noise-making device, like a whistle. Keep this in a pocket on your PFD. I also carry a signaling mirror with the whistle. I also have a rescue lamp attached to my PFD as well as a submersible Marine VHF Radio and an escape knife. The minimal PFD should be a Coast Guard approved type DI. The fit has to be proper so it can't be pulled over your head. Put on the PFD and have someone try to pull it over your head. You'd be amazed how easily some of the type III's come off. Straps cinched tightly and size appropriate vests can help prevent this. You might consider the type II if you're not a strong water person. Before going out get in the water and have someone help you testing out your system. Not only for dryness but ease of re-entry back into the yak. Pretend that you're unconscious, face down, and see what your PFD does. Type m�s have a limited ability to turn an unconscious person face up. If you're wearing waders, be sure to secure the chest strap to minimize the water intake if you end up in it. Full waders make surviving a dunking not impossible, but much more difficult.
Paddle Leash: After the purchase of a hull, a paddle, and a PFD, this item is a must on any water. You hear of being up the creek without a paddle. Drop one overboard in a Rip, and see where that gets you. Paddle Leashes come in many of styles, but the bottom line is they have a Velcro strap that is attached to the center of the paddle and bungee styles cord and a clip to attach to other end to a loop of rings, thus allowing you to retrieve a dropped paddle.
Compasses & Charts: At the very least, you should carry a compass and the applicable chart for the area you intend to fish. Not only will you be able to find various reference points, but pre-planning with a paper chart can eliminate many areas that will not hold fish. More on this subject later.
Geo Positioning Systems (GPS): Although not absolutely necessary, I would say that if you intend to do any night fishing or go out in heavy fog, these are indispensable. Not only will you be able to find your way home, but also find the areas you are targeting to fish. They are not exact and not intended to the sole use of navigation, as charts should always be referred to first, they can assist in locating structure and other sites by outing you within a couple of yards of the location. This combined with a fish finder, will put you on top of most any structure you are looking for. Again, these normally required an external power source, which will discussed later. Look for a unit that has an internal antenna, can be updated with the latest software, is waterproof, and is easily to read. My unit also has tide tables and adjustable backlighting, with readout of speed, heading, and distance to the next wave point.
Marine & VHF Radios: Although not absolutely necessary, the time when you may need one is one in which you have been dumped and separated from your kayak and need assistance. They can be used to call the Coast Guard for help, or coordinate your fishing activities. Additionally, you can monitor weather and receive alters to changing weather conditions that may turn dangerous. Be sure not to do this on channels 9 of 16 as these are reserved for emergency.
Navigation Lights: If you intend to do any night kayak fishing, something we do a lot of in the summer season, you are not required to have navigational lights even though many kayakers rig them. However the Coast Guard requires some type of white light like a lantern or a flashlight. This is not enough in my opinion, I also use a LED stern light, and a headlamp that has multiple color selections from red to white. The Stern Light is powered by a pair of AA batteries that last nearly an entire season of fishing. The head lamp allows me to see what I am doing at night, from baiting hooks to untangling bird nested reels. It also, allows me to signal on coming boats and in emergency signal distress.
Power: To supply power to the Fish Finder and GPS Unit, all that is required is a 12 VDC 6 � 9 AH dry cell rechargeable battery that can be found in most hobby shops. Combined with a charger, the battery will normally supply power over the course of 12 � 36 hours of fishing depending on how much backlighting is used. My battery is housed in a Pelican watertight case, which I mount in my center hatch.
Hopefully this gave you some ideas. Tight lines, fair winds, and I will see you on the salt.
This is the most important subject related to kayak fishing. Lack of respect for the ocean will result in tragedy and ultimately, ones safety is a personal matter. Respect the water, don�t go beyond your skill level, and comfort zone, listen to that inner voice, dress for the water, for it is not if you fall in, but rather, when. With the intimacy of a kayak to the water comes the risk of ending up in the water. Think about this before you go out. How would it feel to be in 65, or 55, or even 45-degree water in sweat pants and a sweatshirt? What alternatives do you have to wear not only for flotation, but also for prevention of hypothermia? It's a real threat for a kayaker, even if you don't end up in the water. Water dripping off of yaks, subtle waves here and there over the sidewall all contribute to your getting wet. How will you get dry and how will you warm up again. Plan ahead. Waterproof clothing is a must. This coupled with a flotation system that will support your unconscious weight should an accident occur resulting in such. Will you be in a heads up position that gives you a fighting chance in a worst-case scenario that you are ejected from your kayak?
Float Plan: Before you go, have a float Plan. Look at the weather, the tides, and a chart of the area you intend to paddle. Figure out when and where you intend to leave and when you intend to return. Leave this information with someone, just incase you are late arriving. This way time will not be wasted looking for you somewhere else.
Personal Floatation Device (PFD): Probably the most important article one can have with them in a Kayak out on the ocean. Buy a good one; it may safe your life; and wear it at all times! Look for comfort, for if you are not comfortable in it, you won�t wear it. I like one with a high back that doesn�t interfere with my seat. Next, the Coast Guard requires that you have a noise-making device, like a whistle. Keep this in a pocket on your PFD. I also carry a signaling mirror with the whistle. I also have a rescue lamp attached to my PFD as well as a submersible Marine VHF Radio and an escape knife. The minimal PFD should be a Coast Guard approved type DI. The fit has to be proper so it can't be pulled over your head. Put on the PFD and have someone try to pull it over your head. You'd be amazed how easily some of the type III's come off. Straps cinched tightly and size appropriate vests can help prevent this. You might consider the type II if you're not a strong water person. Before going out get in the water and have someone help you testing out your system. Not only for dryness but ease of re-entry back into the yak. Pretend that you're unconscious, face down, and see what your PFD does. Type m�s have a limited ability to turn an unconscious person face up. If you're wearing waders, be sure to secure the chest strap to minimize the water intake if you end up in it. Full waders make surviving a dunking not impossible, but much more difficult.
Paddle Leash: After the purchase of a hull, a paddle, and a PFD, this item is a must on any water. You hear of being up the creek without a paddle. Drop one overboard in a Rip, and see where that gets you. Paddle Leashes come in many of styles, but the bottom line is they have a Velcro strap that is attached to the center of the paddle and bungee styles cord and a clip to attach to other end to a loop of rings, thus allowing you to retrieve a dropped paddle.
Compasses & Charts: At the very least, you should carry a compass and the applicable chart for the area you intend to fish. Not only will you be able to find various reference points, but pre-planning with a paper chart can eliminate many areas that will not hold fish. More on this subject later.
Geo Positioning Systems (GPS): Although not absolutely necessary, I would say that if you intend to do any night fishing or go out in heavy fog, these are indispensable. Not only will you be able to find your way home, but also find the areas you are targeting to fish. They are not exact and not intended to the sole use of navigation, as charts should always be referred to first, they can assist in locating structure and other sites by outing you within a couple of yards of the location. This combined with a fish finder, will put you on top of most any structure you are looking for. Again, these normally required an external power source, which will discussed later. Look for a unit that has an internal antenna, can be updated with the latest software, is waterproof, and is easily to read. My unit also has tide tables and adjustable backlighting, with readout of speed, heading, and distance to the next wave point.
Marine & VHF Radios: Although not absolutely necessary, the time when you may need one is one in which you have been dumped and separated from your kayak and need assistance. They can be used to call the Coast Guard for help, or coordinate your fishing activities. Additionally, you can monitor weather and receive alters to changing weather conditions that may turn dangerous. Be sure not to do this on channels 9 of 16 as these are reserved for emergency.
Navigation Lights: If you intend to do any night kayak fishing, something we do a lot of in the summer season, you are not required to have navigational lights even though many kayakers rig them. However the Coast Guard requires some type of white light like a lantern or a flashlight. This is not enough in my opinion, I also use a LED stern light, and a headlamp that has multiple color selections from red to white. The Stern Light is powered by a pair of AA batteries that last nearly an entire season of fishing. The head lamp allows me to see what I am doing at night, from baiting hooks to untangling bird nested reels. It also, allows me to signal on coming boats and in emergency signal distress.
Power: To supply power to the Fish Finder and GPS Unit, all that is required is a 12 VDC 6 � 9 AH dry cell rechargeable battery that can be found in most hobby shops. Combined with a charger, the battery will normally supply power over the course of 12 � 36 hours of fishing depending on how much backlighting is used. My battery is housed in a Pelican watertight case, which I mount in my center hatch.
Hopefully this gave you some ideas. Tight lines, fair winds, and I will see you on the salt.