The time of year is coming where ticks, mosquitoes, gnats and other annoying insects will be present. What is the best type of repellent that you use? Does anyone still use products with Deet in it?
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The time of year is coming where ticks, mosquitoes, gnats and other annoying insects will be present. What is the best type of repellent that you use? Does anyone still use products with Deet in it?
Skinner, IMO not much you can do to repel ticks, they cling on me even when I use the spray. Back bay places are full of them. Right now the tick population is blooming, so check yourself every time when coming out of there.
As for the other ones, I like 100% deet, or even something as low as 21%, if you spray it all over. Come summer, there are some places and points of land where the mosquitoes and flies are unbearable. I kinda like it that way, it keeps the human traffic down. ;)
Cover up with that stuff. Bear in mind it can ruin the fabric on some wetsuits and outdoor gear, so read the instructions first.
A few years ago I started using Crocodile Insect repellent, it's great it works well but is kind of oily. It does not contain Deet. Although it works really well to keep bugs away from you Deet is uncomfortable to wear and it melts plastic on contact I wonder what it does to us. I have tried other products that don't contain Deet but they were less than perfect.
I use outdoor critters or Avon skin so soft. A lot of guys make fun of the Avon product but it works wonders.
for some reason the skin so soft never worked for me. i tried the cabela's bug repellent long johns but those didn't work. as a matter of fact, i got tore up the worst ever by chiggers wearing those dang things. they ain't cheap either.
the guys down here swear by those electronic gizmos. i forget the name.
i usually use deet but i'm going coyote hunting this weekend and gotta be scent free. sure hope it's still too early for chiggers. those things are 2 weeks of pure hell if you run into a bunch of them.
I use cabela's bug repellent. I carry a can with me every time I go out.
Cabela's isn't working any more. The mosquitoes and salt and pepper specks are terrible in the back bays this year. I need to find me one of these.
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A big fat cigar a good slow burner don't leave home without them I think the bug spray kills us not them cigars are probably safer than deet.
maybe? :D
Jul 1, 2009 11:45 pm US/Eastern
Debunking The Myths About Deet, Bug Spray
Health Officials Warn Wet June Weather Will Lead To Big Crop Of Mosquitoes Later In The Summer
http://llnw.image.cbslocal.com/29/20...75x56/cole.jpg Reporting
Kirstin Cole
NEW YORK (CBS) ―
http://llnw.image.cbslocal.com/30/20...o_85878091.jpg Click to enlarge
Mothers like Wendi Neulight are rather paranoid when it comes to protecting their children from mosquitoes.
"If I could put (my daughter) in a bubble, I would," Neulight said. "But that's not realistic. I'm concerned about bug bites. I hate getting bug bites myself."
The Health Department has warned that the wet, soggy weather New York experienced in June will produce a bumper crop of mosquitoes in July in August – and that could lead to an increase in cases of the West Nile Virus.
But Neulight believes that seeking protection from the bugs can often be difficult due to the plethora of sprays and creams available.
Entomologist Dr. Rosemarie Kelly told CBS 2 HD most bug sprays generally do a good job of keeping the mosquitoes away.
"You wear repellent, you're actually keeping the mosquito from biting you," Kelly said. "So that's the first line of defense."
The most-commonly used insect repellents tend to contain chemicals like Deet. These have been proven to work, but their safety has come under scrutiny in recent years.
Kelly feels many Americans use products containing Deet rather recklessly.
"The problems come in with people using it off label," Kelly said. "Or else over-using it, spraying children without regard to the fact that kids put their hands in their mouths, or getting it in their eyes."
The Environmental Protection Agency's Web site has stated the organization's position on Deet, which reads, "as long as consumers follow label directions, insect repellents do not present a health concern."
But a number of new, organic bug repellents are being marketed as safer alternatives to the common chemical. Many are plant-based and contain ingredients like oil of lemon eucalyptus – which Kelly says is natural, but not necessarily safer than Deet.
"You can't run out to your natural food store and buy Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus," Kelly said. "That's not the product that works, and you're asking for skin irritation."
Kelly added that shoppers looking for organic insect repellents should look for the active ingredient PMD, which is a chemical derived from Eucalyptus Oil. PMD, along with an ingredient called Picardin, have both been proven to work.
"Picaridin is also very effective," Kelly said. "It's labeled for use in children three years and older."
Picardin, which was first approved for use in Europe, is said to be odorless and colorless, as well as less-sticky and easier on clothes than Deet.
Pediatricians recommend avoiding the use of Deet products on children under 2 months old, while the EPA has stated consumers should only buy repellents it has previously approved.
For more on pesticides and insect repellents, please click here and here.
http://wcbstv.com/local/deet.repelle...2.1067956.html
My uncle told me garlic, but you're supposed to rub it or garlic oil on your arms and face. Maybe he was pulling my leg, I didn't try it yet.:scared:
Be careful with that stuff, they show damage from long-term exposure.
News / Insect Repellents / DEET Info
Use Caution When Using DEET
Every year, approximately one-third of the U.S. population uses insect repellants containing DEET to ward off mosquitoes and other pests. At present, DEET is used in more than 230 products with concentrations up to 100 percent.
However, DEET should be used with caution due to its possible damaging effects on brain cells. Studies have shown that DEET causes brain cell death and behavioral changes in rats after frequent and prolonged use. This exposure causes neurons to die in regions of the brain that control muscle movement, learning, memory, and concentration. Rats treated with an average human dose of DEET (40 mg/kg body weight) performed far worse when challenged with physical tasks requiring muscle control, strength and coordination. These findings are consistent with reported human symptoms following DEET's use by the military in the Persian Gulf War.
With heavy exposure to DEET and other insecticides, humans may experience memory loss, headache, weakness, fatigue, muscle and joint pain, tremors and shortness of breath. These symptoms may not be evident until months or even years after exposure. The most severe damage occurs when DEET is used concurrently with other insecticides, such as permethrin, for prolonged and frequent periods of time. At this time, there is little information about the short-term, singular and occasional use of DEET. Further government testing of the chemical's safety is necessary. However, frequent and long-term use of DEET, especially in combination with other chemicals or medications, could cause brain deficits in vulnerable populations, particularly children.
Until further studies are done, it is important to be cautious when using this insecticide:
Use insecticides containing DEET sparingly and infrequently. If you do use one on your skin, avoid wearing it for prolonged periods of time.
Be wary of using insect repellant containing DEET on children. Children are more susceptible to subtle brain changes caused by chemicals in their environment because their skin more readily absorbs them. Also, their still-developing nervous systems are more potently affected. For the same reasons,
NEVER use insect repellant containing DEET on infants.
Be aware that DEET can be present in commonly used preparations like insecticide-based lice-killing shampoos. Use the same precautions with such preparations as you would with insect repellant.
Do not combine insecticides with each other or use them while using other medications. Even an over-the-counter antihistamine could interact with DEET to cause toxic side effects.
Do not spray your yard for insects and then take medications afterward. There is a possibility that you've inhaled a small amount of the insecticide that might interact negatively with the medication. Also, be sure to wash your skin thoroughly after spraying your yard. Lawn treatment chemicals are very strong and were not formulated to be applied to human skin.
From the Duke University Medical Center News Office
The Dangers of DEET
From This week on MedMinute, a service of Duke University News.
Use caution when using insect repellents containing DEET.
Every year, approximately one-third of Americans use insect repellents containing the insecticide DEET. Duke University Medical Center pharmacologist Mohamed Abou-Donia has spent 30 years researching the effects of pesticides. He has found that prolonged exposure to DEET can impair functioning in parts of the brain.
"Damage to these areas could result in problems with muscle coordination, muscle weakness, walking or even memory and cognition."
Abou-Donia says rats given even small doses of DEET for 60 days had a harder time accomplishing even the easiest tasks.
Abou-Donia says short-term exposure to DEET does not appear to be harmful, but warns against using any product with more than a 30 percent concentration. Use as little of the product as you can, and don't use a product containing DEET if you're taking any medication.
"We found that the combined exposure to DEET and other chemicals is more dangerous than just DEET alone."
Abou-Donia also warns to never put a product containing DEET on an infant's or child's skin. The side-effects could be even more serious. I'm Cabell Smith for MedMinute. From the Duke University Medical Center News Office
http://www.quantumhealth.com/news/dangers_of_DEET.html
I have used the Avon Skin So Soft the last few years and it has worked great for me. I put lots on my face, ears and neck.
But wear long sleeves and covered legs.
Also for my hands I take latex gloves and cut out the fingers and wear them, without that I have had them target the hand "ouch" and leaves red marks.
Attachment 15333
* Thats a great tip monty. Have to try it on the boat. The skeeters and flies you can get rid of but the no see ums will cling to your skin like crazy glue. They are iirritating as heck!
Try brown listerine in a spray bottle. My uncle spent a lot of time on the water and swore by it.
cactus juice works too. Think they have it in some GNC stores.
We spray the listerine on. Seems to work ok until you sweat it off. then re-apply
A big old cigar always helped me and keeps everybody else away fro me too.
For you landlubbers I found this cool greenhead trap from Rutgers.
http://www.rci.rutgers.edu/~insects/greenheads.htm
http://www-rci.rutgers.edu/~insects/depline.gif THE GREENHEAD AND YOU http://stripersandanglers.com/Forum/fossilbrachy.jpg
Elton Hansens and Stuart Race, Rutgers University
For a number of years Rutgers research has been directed toward control of the salt marsh greenhead in southern New Jersey. Now we can recommend a trap which will greatly reduce greenhead annoyance in many areas. Further research is planned to develop even better controls, which are effective and have no harmful side effects.
The Greenhead Problem: The salt marsh greenhead fly, Tabanus nigrovittatus, is an abundant and bothersome summertime pest along our coastal marshes. Because the females bite during daylight, and because they occur in large numbers, have a long flight range, and attack persistently, they interfere with the enjoyment of coastal areas throughout much of the summer.
To anyone who has not visited the New Jersey coastal areas during "fly season," the impact of these flies on daytime activities is hard to imagine. We have collected in traps over 1000 greenhead flies per hour all seeking a blood meal. Greenhead fly populations reach peak numbers during July, but extend from late June into September.
Conventional methods of biting fly control, such as those used for mosquitoes are either environmentally undesirable or economically impractical. Both adults and larvae of greenhead flies are large in comparison to other, non-target organisms.
Generally, more insecticide is needed to kill larger insects. The higher concentrations or greater amounts of toxic materials needed to obtain - greenhead control have undesirable effects on other insects and animals. Marsh water management by ditching may actually enhance greenhead production. Although high-level impoundments reduce the numbers of developing greenhead larvae, this is a costly and impractical approach to fly control for much of our coastal wetlands.
In studying the life history and habits of the salt marsh greenhead, we have developed several types of traps to capture greenheads in large numbers. These traps show promise as an inexpensive yet effective means of reducing the number of biting flies during midsummer.
Where Greenheads Come From: Greenhead flies are produced from our coastal marshes. We have found as many as 70 larvae in a single square yard of marsh sod. Developing larvae concentrate along the upper vegetational zone reached by daily high tides. Foraging through wet thatch, surface muck, and vegetation, the predaceous larvae attack and devour a variety of invertebrates, including some of their own kind. Larvae overwinter and form a pupa after a brief period of spring foraging. The adult emerges from the pupa in late spring.
Adult flies mate on the open marsh. Within a few days and without seeking a blood meal, the female lays her first egg mass, consisting of 100 to 200 eggs. To produce additional egg masses, the female needs a blood meal. Among biting flies, blood serves as a rich protein source necessary for egg development. In the case of the salt marsh greenhead, protein for the first egg mass is obtained when the predaceous larva eats other insect larvae or small animals, but to lay additional egg masses she must obtain a blood meal.
Adult female greenheads move from the salt marsh to nearby -wooded or open areas along the marsh edge to seek suitable blood sources. There they await and attack wildlife, livestock, and people that venture close enough for them to detect.
Females live for three to four weeks in the uplands before they become too weak to bite. Because of this long life, larger numbers of' blood hungry flies build up in areas near salt marshes. The physical removal of large numbers of flies can reduce this buildup and thus decrease the greenhead fly problem locally.
Traps for Greenheads: Traps were developed originally to measure fly populations during Rutgers research. In fact, the traps capture large numbers of blood-seeking flies and if such traps are located at the edge of a marsh or in adjacent uplands where flies concentrate, they serve as a partial control for greenheads.
Where single traps capture hundreds of flies per day, a marked reduction in greenhead annoyance results.
In Delaware, the use of three to five traps near isolated human dwellings has resulted in almost complete reduction in greenhead attacks.
After several years of refinement in trap design as well as the study of optimal trap location, we are confident that such traps will capture flies in numbers great enough to decrease the salt marsh greenhead problem in local areas. What we don't know is whether or not the continual removal of large numbers of these flies over several seasons will reduce the size of the total fly population. To put the results of these studies to good use, we are encouraging all interested coastal dwellers to build and maintain one or more of these simple trapping devices.
How to build it
Building the Box Trap: The basic box trap design is diagrammed in Figure 1. http://stripersandanglers.com/Forum/greenfig.jpgEssentially the trap is a four-sided box having a screen top and open bottom. This box stands on legs so that its bottom is about 2 feet above the marsh surface. Flies enter the trap from below and move into secondary traps on the top of the box. The design is simple. The sides of the box can be made of a number of materials including plywood, cardboard, or plastic sheeting tacked to wooden framing. The trap dimensions have been developed experimentally and we urge the wise builder to pay strict attention to the following points:
1. Build a box 15 x 32 inches on a side fastened to corner posts. We use 1/4 plywood and 1 x 2 inch furring strips, but other materials can be used. Also nail a strip to the top of each side for later attachment of the screen top. The bottom of the box remains open. The optimal size for each side of the box is about 16 x 32 inches. In our tests, larger and smaller box traps were less efficient. Furthermore, these dimensions allow nine sides to be cut from a standard 4 x 8 foot panel. This means that the sides for nine traps can be cut from four 4 x 8 sheets of material.
2. We use separate legs 40 inches long which are attached to the trap when it is placed for catching flies. The box is fastened so that its lower leg is 24 inches above the ground surfaces. This is important because the greenhead fly usually flies at about this altitude.
3. The trap should be painted a glossy black to contrast with its surroundings and to absorb heat from the sun. Either shiny or dull black plastic sheeting attached securely to a frame is also satisfactory.
4. The top of the trap should be made of a metal insect screen. Plastic screening or sheeting will be damaged readily by birds seeking to get at the trapped flies and should not be used.
5. Take care in building the box and attaching the screen. Be sure there are no holes for escape of trapped flies. Once inside the box, most flies move to the top of the trap, through the screen cones and into collectors, described in Step 8.
6. Cut two holes in the screen roof of the box at diagonal corners. These holes should be 2 to 3 inches from the sides of the trap and 2 ½ inches in diameter. Make a cone of insect screen with a base of 2 ½ inches in diameter and 2 to 2 ½ inches high and with a hole ½ inch in diameter at the top. This can be done from the template shown in Figure la. After the piece of screen is cut, roll it into a cone and securely cement, staple or sew it with wire.
7. Cement the cones around the holes in the screen roof, using an all purpose or epoxy cement.
8. The two collectors can be any type of clear plastic container such as a shoe box or cake box. We have found that plastic bags are unsatisfactory because crows and other birds tear them open to feed on the trapped flies. We use round containers 10 inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches high but square or rectangular boxes of similar size can also be used. Smaller collectors may require frequent emptying of flies and, therefore, are inconvenient.
9. Cut a 2 ½ inch diameter hole in the bottom of the collector so it will fit easily over the screen cones attached to the top of the trap. Then make two more cones as described Step 6 and cement them around the holes in each plastic container. The collectors will then have a cone which will fit over the one on the trap and prevent loss of flies. (See Figures 1 and 1b).
10. Place the screen cones in the collectors over the matching cones on the corners of the trap so that flies have a clear path through matching ½ inch holes from the inside of the box into the inside of the collector. Install a wire or cord across each collector to hold it securely in place.
11. The trap is now ready for placing in a suitable collecting site on the marsh or along a "fly path". After attaching the legs, drive stakes beside two of them and attach the legs to the stakes. This will prevent wind from upsetting the trap.
12. Trap effectiveness can be increased by hanging a decoy beneath the trap. A beach ball 14 to 16 inches in diameter and painted shiny black helps attract flies when suspended beneath the trap. The decoy should clear the ground by four to six inches so it moves with the breeze.
13. The cost of materials for a box trap is reasonable. Even without the use of salvaged or less durable materials, a trap can be built for a few dollars.
Box Trap Use and Maintenance; Traps should be set out when the first greenheads appear on the marsh (mid- to late June) and kept in operation through August. Generally, maintenance is a simple matter. Traps should be inspected at least weekly during the peak of the fly season. At each inspection dead flies should be emptied from the plastic containers and discarded, and tears or holes in the screens or sides should be patched or plugged. Trapped flies usually die in less than 24 hours and soon dry up and decompose. Traps perform best when the secondary collector is not clogged with flies, obscuring the light through the screen funnel. Thus frequent disposal of dead flies results in a more effective trap.
Before storage, traps should be cleaned of flies and dirt. If stored indoors, they will last much longer.
Selection of trap location is important. Great variation in trapping success exists depending on location. The following suggestions will help you find the best location for your trap. Traps should be placed on the marsh edge near the upland or along the open edge of wooded or shrubby areas. The best locations are at breaks or openings of low vegetation in screening stands of trees or tall brush near the marsh. We call these breaks "fly-paths" because most of the fly traffic from marsh to upland passes through these points. Clusters of two or three traps in a fly-path tend to capture more flies then the combined totals of isolated traps. Traps can also be placed on beaches and should be located where flies are most abundant. If the beach is near the marsh, best results can be expected by trapping flies in the marsh and "fly-paths".
Vegetation beneath and around the trap should be kept low (four to six inches high) for about a 6-foot radius. This box trap gives an ecologically safe, inexpensive, and effective means of greenhead fly control available to anyone with the energy and manual dexterity to build one. Why not try to build and operate one or more of these traps this summer. Remember, FOR EVERY FLY YOU TRAP, THERE IS ONE LESS FEMALE FLY TO BITE.
Other Tabanid References (opens in a new window)
About Tabanids (new window)
Another Tabanid trap (new window)
Another trap (new window)
Putting your Tabanids to work. (new window)
Return to Rutgers Entomology
VS thanks for posting that. The greenies have been so bad on the shores of Connecticut this year. When there is a W or NW wind I hesitate to go out there. I think in this thread or somewhere else someone mentioned skin so soft. That is a good product and a lot less poisonous than some of the straight deet applications. I am happy to use it because it really works.
The bugs are gone. the latest cold snap killed them all thank God
^^^^^ Yeah well they are back. Fished the hook this morning and as soon as the wind dropped up there were hundreds of them biting me. I really hate the smaller no see ums. Much worse than the skeeters imho:scared:
been using the original formula Listerine rub on skin works well
I got to try that it might be less offensive to others around you. Not that I care anymore.
I use to use Skin so soft. It really works, but i use to be really sensitive to the people around me fishing saying " what the F@#k is that smell" Lol. now I know it a good thing. they may spread out and give you more space. If they had it in skunk scented you could clear area.
^See that.....I get no respect around here.....:moon::ROFLMAO :HappyWave:
DS'S waders could gag a maggot no see ums shouldn't even be a challenge
^ Keep it up ya grouchy basstid......a few years from now someone is gonna have to change your Depends.......if I end up getting that job....do ya want to be changed right away...or do ya want to suffer for a few hours first? :laugh: :moon: :kiss: :HappyWave:
Worst case scenario I smell like you:kicknuts:^^^^^^
^ Yup we'll be known as Stinky and Blinky.
No one will want to fish close to us, we'll have a mile of clear beach on either side wherever we go. :drool:
Oh, the possibilities.....can't wait.....:rolleyes:
Anyone want to take a guess as to who will be stinky, and who's blinky, and why? :)
OK, Ill take a stab at it! It seems logical that dark would be stinky because of all the stories. where does that leave finchaser? How does he fit the name blinky? Moving forward it would be logical to call dark blinky because monty made fun of him for falling asleep. Asleep=blinky. Then the only name left would be stinky which by default would go to finchaser (sorry for that finchaser please don't send the mafia goons to my house I still have to make mortgage payments on it) :HappyWave:
Cement mixer on way to DS will entomb him and his Porto John while he's asleep. I could be blinky, fishing as I did in the past 1/4 to 1/2 mile up wind of him and blinking as I gag when he gets to close:
Then again DS fits three categories
Know As Stinky Blinky Googan it all fits or SBG
Haha dark he got you good!:HappyWave: