Other Lures
The chapter will describe how to make other fishing lures, not covered in the previous chapters. One problem often encountered in both fresh and salt water is how to cast tiny lures such a small panfish bug, a tiny spoon, or a light jig, with heavy fishing tackle. Some of these lures may weigh only a fraction of an ounce and are too light to cast with a spinning, bait-casting, or surf spinning rod. To get around this problem and at the same time create a rig which attracts fish, anglers have made up "splasher" rigs.
A splasher rig consists of a cylindrical section of wood which has an eye on each end. The fishing line is tied to one eye and a nylon monofilament leader about 2 ft. long is tied to the other eye. On the end of this leader tie a small popping panfish bug, or a bass bug for fresh-water fishing. Or, tie a small spoon, wet fly, or light jig to the leader, for fresh- or salt-water fishing. The idea here is to use the block of wood as a weight for casting out the smaller lure trailing behind. The wood section floats and, when jerked or trolled, creates a commotion which attracts fish.
The cylindrical section of wood can be made from any round wood such as a dowel, a broomstick, or a tool handle. The diameter and length will depend on the fishing tackle you will use to cast it. The smaller diameter and shorter lengths are used for light fresh-water tackle and the thicker diameters and longer wood sections are best for the heavier salt-water outfits.
For the smaller fresh-water splashers you can use two screw eyes, one on each end for tying on the line and leader. But for the larger splashers used in salt-water fishing the through-wire construction, with eyes formed at each end, is stronger. This, of course, requires drilling a hole through the center for the wire.
Another lure which is widely used in trolling for blues and other fish is the so-called "bone" lure, shown in Fig. 123. Years ago these lures were made from hollow, tubular animal bones, such as those from cats, chickens, and turkeys. Today, with plastic tubes available in various diameters, lengths, and colors, very few natural bones are used.
To make the bone-type lure, buy white plastic tubing about % in. in diameter and cut it into lengths of about 3 or 4 in. long. Then tie a hook on a wire leader and slip the plastic tube down on the wire until it rests against the curve of the hook. Although regular-shank hooks can be used, a long-shank hook is preferred. Also, a hook with a small or needle eye is better than a hook with a big ringed eye.
This bone lure can be used "as is," but many anglers prefer to dip a short section of the head in red paint or lacquer. Plastic tubing can also be obtained in yellow, red, light blue, green and other colors. Bone lures are usually trolled "as is" for such fish as bluefish, mackerel, bonito, albacore, dolphin, and small tuna. When used for striped bass it's a good idea to add about two or three sandworms or bloodworms to the hook.
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Bone or plastic lure.Figure 123.
Somewhat similar is the rubber lure made from a length of surgical rubber tubing. This is shown in Fig. 124. Here you cut off about a 6 in. length of the rubber tube and then slice the tail, at an angle, for a length of about 2 in. so that the side of the rubber not removed forms a tapering tail. Then get a long-shanked hook such as a Pacific Bass, in size 5/0 or 6/0, and tie a nylon monofilament leader to the hook eye. Then slide the rubber tube on the leader and down the hook. The hook should be covered by the rubber tube, allowing only the bend and point to protrude. This lure is trolled for such fish as bluefish, striped bass, bonito, and albacore and for best results should spin freely. Bending the hook shank increases the spinning action. This lure should have a good swivel attached to the end of the leader because of its spinning qualities.
The rubber-tube lure described above is trolled because it is too light to cast. But you can cast it if you add a keel sinker in front or slip a small egg-shaped sinker on the leader ahead of the rubber tube to provide weight for casting. See Fig. 125.
The rubber-tube lure in its natural amber rubber color catches fish, but it can also be painted white, silver, light blue, yellow, red, or black. The paint will chip after a while, but can be renewed every so often.
Another lure made by salt-water anglers who fish for herring or mackerel is shown in Fig. 126. It can be made from any shiny metal such as nickel, chrome-plated brass, or stainless steel. This lure should be small for herring, say about 2 in. long and 1/4in. wide. The thickness or gauge of the metal used will depend on the weight you want. Metal about .04 in. thick is good for the size of lure suggested here. After the lure is cut out it should be polished and then twisted as shown in the drawing. A hole should be drilled in one end for the fishing line. If you use a single hook you can either solder it on or rivet it to the metal. If you use a small treble hook, add a split ring and attach the hook to this. This lure is jigged up and down from a boat, a pier, or other spot where there is deep water and herring present. It can also be used in fresh-water ice fishing.
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Figure 124. Rubber tube lure.http://www.fishinghomemadelure.com/i...adelure114.jpg
Figure 125. Rubber tube lure weighted with a sinker.http://www.fishinghomemadelure.com/i...adelure115.jpg
Figure 126. Twisted metal lure.
Other lures for herring, shad, small bluefish, and similar fish can be quickly made with a hook and some tin foil, tinsel, or cellophane. Take a small hook such as No. 2 either in regular shank or long shank, wrap the tin foil or cellophane around it, and then tie the ends with red nylon or silk thread. Such a lure is shown in Fig. 127. If you want to, add a small feather or two at the tail of the lure.
You can also make natural looking molded-rubber lures which so closely resemble frogs, minnows, crayfish, hellgrammites, nymphs, larvae, and other natural baits that they look almost alive. To make such molded-rubber lures you use liquid rubber or latex. You need a pattern or model, and the best one you can use, of course, is the natural bait itself. Plaster of Paris or water putty can be used to make such a mold. The steps in making the mold are very similar to those used in making a metal squid described in Chapter 8. However, there are some differences so we'll again describe the procedure briefly. First, get your natural bait to be copied, such as a frog. Choose one somewhat larger than the finished size you want. Liquid rubber shrinks when it dries so you have to start with a larger cavity in the mold. Then get a piece of glass or metal and form a small box from cardboard or wood on this flat surface. Then take your frog and stuff it with absorbent cotton down its mouth, throat, and belly to fill it out. Now grease the inside of the box and the frog itself with petroleum jelly. Then lay the frog belly down in the box and mix some plaster of Paris or water putty. Pour this into the box over the frog until it is covered by at least a half inch or so. Wait an hour or two for the plaster to dry, and then break apart the box and remove the frog. You may have to cut around the frog's body to free it from the plaster.
Tin foil wrapped on a hook. Figure 127.
The mold should follow the contours of the frog's body pretty closely. If there are any holes or other imperfections, patch them with wet plaster. Do this when the plaster mold is still damp. After a few days the plaster mold will dry, and it is ready to use. You can use it as is by merely laying it on a flat surface and then filling the cavity with the liquid rubber or latex. Another way is to place a small flat wooden section over the plaster mold, drill a hole in the wooden flat for a small funnel and then fill the cavity with liquid rubber.
Allow the finished lure to dry for a day or so in the plaster mold, before removing. The rubber frog now needs a hook, which can be the long-shanked hump type described in Chapter 3 for the spin bugs. Slit the belly of the frog and insert the hook so that the eye protrudes on one end at the head and the bend and point are on the opposite side. Pour some liquid rubber into the slit and let it harden for a day or so. For best results, wind the shank of the hook with nylon or silk thread before inserting it in the rubber frog.
You can also use the through-wire construction, which is stronger. Here you push stainless steel wire through the frog from the mouth to the tail and form eyes on each end. The rear eye will hold a small treble hook while the front one is for tying on the line.
The rubber lures made with the single mold above will be flat on one side. If you want to, make two-section molds similar to the ones used for making jigs.
Similar molds, made from metal for casting worms, minnows, crickets, crayfish, frogs, and various insects can be obtained from supply houses. These metal molds are complete and ready to use. They last indefinitely and are very inexpensive.
The lures covered in this book will take care of most of your fresh- or salt-water fishing requirements. Of course, there are many other fishing lures which you can make. Most are similar to those already described, but some may be different. As you go along, you will make changes and improvements, and work out original ideas. Making your own lures is a fascinating pastime and life long hobby.
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