I like his roll-eez setup, but the rest looks a little crowded to me. The surf where he launches is probably a little milder than it is up here. My biggest focus is travelling as light as possible in case you eventually get dumped by big surf or a swell. Can lose a lot of gear that way, best to travel with the minimum.
Sailboat **** I have a Aquaterra 13’ Big Kahuna S.O.T. kayak. I like to fish in the ocean and we have a lot of big sharks around here in South Fl. and I don’t want to be IN THE WATER with one that has an attitude from a hook in his mouth. So I came up with a set of outriggers that have worked super for the last six years. I can sit on the side of the yak if I’m snorkeling and not tip over , I could probably stand up in it but I don’t know what for unless I wanted to fly cast. I think the over all length is important as the pontoons have to be far enough aft so as to not interfere with your paddle stroke. Mine are 30 “ aft of the seat back. I ‘m not even aware that they are back there, every now and then if I’m doing an extra long stroke or maneuver of some sort I will just touch the forward end of the ama ( pontoon ) with the blade of my paddle. They are seven feet across from ama to ama . I made them so they will break down in two pieces for transporting and storage purposes. I am not against drilling holes in the boat but if I can work around not making any new holes and using what is there , That's a plus. This is the reason the two forward running stabilizer legs of PVC are so long. Shorter ones should work but you will need them to keep the pontoons from pivoting. I am a “KNOT NUT “ and any place I can use a proper knot I will. I used a taught line hitch in a short length of nylon line attaching the stabilizers to the existing eye straps for the seat . I used a PVC oven that an electrician uses to bend the PVC into a banana shape. I believe that you could Just boil some water and put a PVC tee into the water for a few minutes and soften it enough to make an acute angle of 4 or 6 degrees in the tee that would serve the same purpose, and that is to keep the ends of the amas out of the water so waves would not dictate the motion of the yak. The webbing has to be fitted tightly to the volume of the boat and a small diameter shock cord to keep it from slipping aft off the taper of the stern. Instead of the expensive quick release pin that holds the two pieces together you could just insert a small bolt through the fitting and it will not require a nut as it should not work it’s way out. The length of the akas ( Arms ) out from the side of the yak should be around 24 “. You can glue it all together except for the short vertical piece. This dimension requires another person to look at the amas while you and all your normal fishing gear are loaded aboard. The amas want to be clear of the waters surface lets say 2 “ or more so as not to create any drag whatsoever . I used two five foot long noodles ( Kids swim Toy ) and cut each in half making the length of each ama 30 “ for floatation and it has more than enough volume for my 6’3’ , 210 lbs.
Good luck building yours, Sailboat ****