How to choose a kayak

[surferman]

How to choose a kayak

Before you buy a sit-on-top kayak (or any kayak, for that matter), you should take stock of where and how you plan to do most of your paddling. Most kayaks can be used for a variety of activities, but understand that no one kayak excels at every activity. Choosing a boat means mulling over a long list of characteristics and compromises-be wary of anyone who tells you about the "best" kayak overall-there is none. There are, however, a few guidelines to help you decide which boat is best for you:
Length and width affect speed and maneuverability. When it comes to speed, it's all about surface area. A long, thin line allows paddlers to slice through the water quickly-a real advantage if you plan on touring, but a drawback on twisty rivers. A 17 foot-long kayak will go much faster than a 9 foot-long kayak, but a 9 foot-long kayak will turn easier than a 17 foot-long kayak. A narrow kayak is faster than a wide one, but wide kayaks tend to be more stable (depending on hull shape).

Hull shape affects performance. Depending somewhat on width, flat or smooth-bottomed kayaks (U-shaped) have more secondary stability, while keeled kayaks (V-shaped) have more primary stability. U-shapes may feel tippier at first, but stay stable in moving water (rivers, surf, etc.) while V-shapes feel most stable in flat water. The tri-form hull of most sit-on-tops combines both primary and secondary stability with a long center keel to keep you going straight, and two "shoulders" that act like sponsons for secondary stability. This tri-form hull generally sacrifices a little speed, but adds a lot of stability (which is great for cross-over sports like fishing or diving).

There are lots of different hull shapes, but basically V-shapes encourage a boat to go straight (good for touring), and smooth bottoms encourage a boat to spin (good for surfing, kayak polo, or river running). Whether or not a kayak goes straight is referred to as "tracking." You'll want a kayak with good tracking to cover distance on flat water, but you'll want less in whitewater. Chances are, for recreational paddling, you'll want a kayak with a keel (some kind of V-shape on the bottom), so you can travel more efficiently. If you expect to spend equal time on flat and moving water, consider buying a short kayak with a keel (it's all a continuum, remember).

"Rocker" is another term used to describe hull shape. Think of the keel as something you'd notice on a kayak cut in half. Rocker is most noticeable on a kayak cut cross-ways. A kayak with a lot of rocker would look like a "U" in a cross-ways view. A kayak with little rocker would look like a line. Keeping in mind the idea of surface area and water displacement, you'll want a lot of rocker (one round point touching the water) for maneuverability, and you'll want very little rocker (a long, thin line of points touching the water) for touring. For recreational paddling, pick something in between.

You can paddle a tandem kayak alone, but it's not easy. Do you plan to paddle solo or tandem? This is one of the most basic questions you'll have to answer. While one person can paddle a tandem alone, it requires sitting in the rear of the kayak while ballasting the front. The kayak will move, but not at its optimal level. On the other hand, it's a lot of fun to go out with a partner, often safer, and usually cheaper than buying two boats. There are a few tandem sit-on-tops that have a jump seat between the front and rear seat wells. This seat arrangement makes it possible to balance weight for better performance when paddling alone, and may be a good option to try if you want to paddle both tandem and solo.

Your body determines how the kayak will perform. You probably wouldn't buy new pants without trying them on first. The same rule applies to kayaks. When you test paddle, you aren't so much looking for mechanical failure as you are trying to get sense of how the kayak fits. It goes beyond just height and weight-people carry weight and proportions in different ways, and these differences translate into how you balance in a kayak. You can always learn how to work with different kinds of kayaks-experts tend to balance better than beginners-but know that it will take time and practice, especially if you decide on a specialized kayak.
Other things to consider. There are a few other things to think about when choosing a kayak. Where will you store it? Can your garage or basement hold a 16 foot-long kayak? How will you transport it? Do you have roof racks or would you rather put the kayak in a truck bed? Even color choice is important. Do you want to be seen, or would you rather be camouflaged? Considering these issues early on will ensure you enjoy your kayak for many years.
Summary. For a beginning or recreational paddler (someone who wants to do a little of everything), a shorter (9-13 feet), wider (28-30"), keeled, roto-molded kayak is a good choice. You should be able to get a brand new set up (a sit-on-top, paddle, and backrest) for between $500-800.

Safety, safety, safety. Check weather conditions. Always follow the boating rules of the area you're in. Brush up on self-rescue-first in calm, warm, shallow water, and again in more extreme conditions. Invest in appropriate clothing for your climate. One advantage of sit-inside kayaks is that you can shield yourself from some of the elements, while sit-on-tops leave you more exposed-dress for the day. Most importantly, WEAR YOUR PERSONAL FLOATATION DEVICE. There are great PFDs designed specifically for paddlers. Buy one that fits well, and always wear it while you paddle. Sit-on-top kayaking is safe and fun, but all water sports involve risk. Please don't take chances.

What about paddles, anyway? The great thing about recreational paddling is that it takes very little equipment. Next to the kayak itself, a paddle is your other big choice. Many of the rules that apply to choosing a kayak apply to choosing a paddle. The first rule is that there are none. There are all kinds of fancy equations people have come up with to choose the right paddle for you. The reality is, there are lots of things to consider. How long is your upper body? Your arms? What's your paddle stroke like? How big is your kayak? What type of paddling activity will you do most? How does the paddle feel? What's your budget? Do you really want a $300 carbon fiber paddle for your $400 roto-molded kayak? Listen to the advice of trained paddlers around you, then make your own decision. Like buying a kayak, buying a paddle is best to do after a "test-drive." Most paddlesports shops have demo gear available, and many will credit the cost of a rental to the purchase of equipment. Shop around, find a dealer who can provide both the product and service you require. A good dealer can be your best resource.

What else do I need? Like most sports, the sky's the limit if you want add-ons for your kayak. Other accessories include a backrest to help make paddling more comfortable, scupper stoppers to keep your self-bailing cockpit drier, and dry bags are important for storing gear. You can also buy accessories for navigating, diving, fishing, and more. If you plan to take your kayak on a car top regularly, you'll find a hard rack system worth the investment.

Careful though, paddling is addictive. It is not unusual for people to own several kayaks and paddles for different activities once they've caught the bug.

http://www.oceankayak.com/kayaks/how_to_choose.html

[crosseyedbass]

Here is another article on choosing a kayak (too long for one post so this is part 1):

Choosing and Buying a Kayak

Choosing a kayak? We know it’s tough buying your first kayak.
There are lots of questions: Are you buying the right style? Are you
paying too much? What if you get the wrong one? Our intent here is
to help you make a good choice when you are shopping for and
buying a kayak, so, if you’re sitting comfortably, lets begin….
There are three structural classifications of kayaks:
1. Rigid (or hardshell) boats, made up of either plastic,
fiberglass, kevlar, carbon fiber or wood.
2. Folding boats
3. Inflatable boats.
The rigid kayak is the type that most people think of when they
think of a kayak. Of the rigid models, a plastic boat will be the least
expensive. It will also be the heaviest. Plastic boats are usually
tough and can take a lot of abuse, but once damaged are difficult to
repair.
A fiberglass boat will be more expensive than a plastic model,
but will be significantly lighter. Fiberglass may be easier to damage,
but will also be easier to repair.
Composites such as kevlar, graphite and carbon fiber kayaks will
be even more expensive and lighter still.
Wood boats are a somewhat different breed. They can possess
a nostalgic hand-made quality as well as an aesthetic beauty. A
smooth, warm wood kayak can be a beautiful thing. Some people like
to buy a wood boat in kit form and assemble it themselves. The
prices on wood boats vary considerably. They are easy to repair but
do require routine maintenance.
Folding boats have the advantage of easy portability and
storage. A folding kayak is a collapsible boat made of fabric
stretched over either a wood or aluminum frame. Their initial price is
usually on the expensive end of the spectrum, but they tend to last
longer than a typical hardshell and their resale price usually remains
higher.
Foldables are remarkably tough, flexible, stable and seaworthy,
but the general consensus is that they lack a bit of the speed and
performance of a hardshell. Like wood boats, folding kayaks bring a
sense of nostalgia with them, as they carry on the traditional
construction of past North American native cultures.
Inflatable boats offer terrific portability and ease of storage.
They can generally be the least expensive kayaking option. I’ve been
using an inflatable for years and I appreciate how easy it is to get it
to the water and back. After it dries off, I just store it in the
basement.
But, as important as the structural makeup of the boat is,
kayaks are typically classified as to the type of boating they are
designed to do. Boats built for long distance touring are radically
different from boats built for whitewater activity. There isn’t any
single kayak that will excel in every type of paddling situation. As a
kayak shopper, you need to anticipate your future paddling
situations and then select a boat that should perform well in those
situations. We recommend that you take the following factors into
consideration when looking for a kayak.

The kind of boating you will be doing
You want to get a kayak that is well-suited for the type of
boating you will be doing. This is probably the single most important
factor you need to consider. You want to determine what kind of
paddling you will be doing and how often you will be doing it.

Your experience as a paddler

When an experienced paddler is shopping for a kayak, he will
generally look for different qualities in a boat than a beginning
paddler would look for. An experienced paddler will usually look for a
boat with good final stability, while a beginner will probably value
good initial stability. The “tippiness” that accompanies a boat with
low initial stability makes many beginners uncomfortable. That
tippiness, however, will generally indicate a boat has greater final
stability, a characteristic advanced boaters value when they’re in
bigger waves.
An experienced paddler may prefer a tight cockpit, while a
beginner may prefer a bigger one that is easier to get in and out of.
Some beginners worry greatly about either escaping from a
tipped-over cockpit or being forced to successfully perform an
Eskimo roll in order to get back above the surface. If this is an issue,
then a sit-on-top model with a recessed seat and footwells may be a
great choice.

Portability and weight

Unfortunately, your kayak is going to be out of the water more
than its going to be in the water, so you need to think about how
you are going to store it, transport it, and physically get it in and out
of the water. If this is a paramount concern, then a portable or
good-quality inflatable boat may be a terrific option. Another option
would be to purchase the lightest hardshell you can afford.

[crosseyedbass]

Part 2

Passenger/Cargo capacity and comfort

There are single-passenger kayaks and there are
double-passenger kayaks. They both have their advantages. A
double can be perfect for couples and families. Paddlers of different
skill levels and ages can be paired up so that nobody is left behind. It
can be a fun family adventure. Doubles are fast and stable, but lack
some of the maneuverability of a single. Also, purchasing one is a
little more risky than buying a single. Make sure that your future
paddling partner is as enthused and motivated as you are. A dusty,
neglected double hanging in the back of a lonesome garage is not a
pretty sight.
If you decide on a single, make sure that it has enough storage
capacity for whatever stuff you wanna bring along. For most
afternoon kayakers, space usually isn’t that much of an issue, but if
you’re going to take long trips, adequate cargo capacity must be
available.
With either a single or a double, the seats need to be
comfortable and supportive. Most paddlers prefer a snug fit for a
whitewater kayak, but for a touring kayak they prefer something with
more room, allowing them to stretch and change positions on longer
trips.

Initial and final stability

We discussed stability earlier when we mentioned how beginners
typically like a boat with good initial stability while experienced
paddlers favor a boat with good secondary stability. Initial stability is
the tendency of the boat to lean or shift away from a perfectly
upright position. Final stability is the tendency of the boat to
actually tip over. A boat with good final stability that seems tippy will
be more forgiving by staying in a leaning position instead of tipping
over. A boat can’t have both good initial stability and final stability —
it’s pretty much one or the other. The hull shape will determine what
kind of stability the boat has.
A second issue with stability is its relationship to speed. A highly
stable boat will not be the fastest boat on the water. Typically, the
stable boat will be wider and slower than the narrower faster boat.

Controllability

Another issue is the controllability of the boat — how well it turns
and tracks. A kayak can either turn easily or track dead straight, but
its a rare boat that can do both well. One of the deciding factors for
this is the length of the kayak. A shorter boat will be more
maneuverable; a longer boat will track better.
Another factor is the curvature of the keel line along the bottom
of the hull. The points where the hull meets the bow and the hull
meets the stern are out of the water higher than the middle area of
the hull (picture a rocking chair). This degree of upward curvature
varies from boat to boat. A boat with a high degree of curvature will
turn easy but track less accurately, while a boat with low curvature
will do the opposite. Many paddlers find a boat with a medium
curvature (some call it rocker) a good compromise.

Available Options

A sprayskirt, accessible hatches, deck fittings, cockpit cover,
flotation bags and a handy holder for your water bottle are all
options that will probably be of interest to you. Having the right
options can really make a difference in your paddling enjoyment.
Another option to consider is a rudder. Many boaters will argue
about the usefulness or necessity of having a rudder. Some will say
that a good kayaker doesn’t need one and a beginner shouldn’t learn
to rely on one. Others counter with the argument that if a rudder
helps, then use it. Most would agree, though, that in certain
conditions, such as when strong winds and waves are consistent and
unrelenting, that a rudder may provide just the right amount of
course correction necessary to allow the paddler to focus more on
their stroke or the scenery instead of their tracking. Rudders are
usually standard on doubles.

Price

After a person has decided what style of kayak to purchase, price
may be a big factor in determining exactly which model to buy. An
entry-level plastic kayak can be as low as $250. Other plastic models
can run as high as $1500. Fiberglass boats will cost from about
$1000 to $3000. Other more exotic composite boats will cost as
much or possibly even more. Inflatable boats can start at about
$250 and go up to $2000. Folding boats will set you back $1300 for
an entry-level boat and up to $4500 for a topnotch double.
Oh, but what the heck, its only money.

[seamonkey]

I found this video easy to follow.

[seamonkey]

this one was pretty helpful too