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Thread: Salty's Lure Kits

  1. #1
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    Default Salty's Lure Kits

    Surfstix makes plugs with them, saw his pictures of them and they looked great. Here are a few I have recently done. I like them. Priced $6.00 to $8.00 a kit I think, (without hooks). Great for guys without a lathe or sander.
    Using Rip Plugger's plug making instructions on them I have been happy with them so far.
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    This one is a 2 oz sand eel swimmer
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    White Water Monty 2.00 (WWM)
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  2. #2
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    They look great Monty. I'm thinking of doing a few. I guess it is the best way to get into the hobby of Plug making. Great for the Winter.

  3. #3
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    Easier for sure but sometimes can still test your patience I would suggest buying extra belly,nose & tail grommets because when you drop them as I often do I usually find them a month later.The belly grommet is a.273 nose is.325 and the kits come w/.325 tail grommets I like the .425 if you want to know where I got them PM me.If you don't want to buy the extras make sure you keep them safe until you need them.


    1:I give them a quick sanding when I get them w/150 grit(some of the kits you need to be careful you don't sand to much especially the new Darter kit)

    2:You will also need for some kits long 1/8" and 5/32 bits sand them down and proceed to sealing(everybody does something different Val oil,BLO,epoxy,tung oil etc. )Its up to you.

    3epending on how you sealed them they may need different drying times I wait 2 weeks for the val oil after they come out and get the excess wiped off.The only caution I can give about val oil or any oil is don't soak them long or you will have anchors that oil soaks in the open wood pores very quick.5-10 mins.

    4:When dry you can prime them I use KILZ(red label)in the spray cans a couple coats(dry in between coats)then let that dry a couple of days so it stays on when you sand it again or you can do the dip method I'd rather spray the extra coats.

    5:Then you can paint them once you get the desired finish I don't like to go much past a 220 grit finish or the paint will not want to stick well rattle cans hand paint airbrush is up to you.(let the paint dry this is a must.)

    6:After the paint has dried a topcoat if you like is the next step(epoxy 30 min.I like Devcon hate locktite or you can use Etex which you can get in a craft store I've used both and I think warmed epoxy is better,Etex is easier to apply but a PITA to mix properly it has to be dead on or it will not dry it also has to be put on a spinner although I spin my epoxy to so it doesn't sag ,thin coats are the best way to do it heavy coats will just run or chip off when banged around I do one coat let dry then I assemble the grommets and swivels don't forget to put the swivels on the wire before you put the wire through to do your wraps(my favorite part no matter what I always have extra prebent wire around there are many ways to do it and I've tried them all its just a PITA for me and probably if you asked most guys they would tell you wire bending _ucks especially after you go through all that work and the wire chips the paint and epoxy off Do not try and get the wire too tight against the back of the plug just enough so it doesn't spin around to tight will crack the plug also make sure the nose loop is facing the way you need it to be before making the tailloop wraps

    7:If you make it this far your on your way I'm still steering clear of the lathe right now.Well if you have any questions give a shout I'll try and help ya out no expert here so take that into consideration.

    Nice work Monty.Can I stop now and buy yours.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfstix1963 View Post
    Nice work Monty.Can I stop now and buy yours.
    Nope.

    Yours have looked great and is the reason I am doing a few of these.
    Thanks for the info, I am winging it (with the instructions), but seems like there are a lot of ways to go about this.
    Your pointers and what Rip Plugger had me doing is all I know. Going to have to get the spare parts, dropped those little buggers a few times, like you said.
    I swam an Atom 40 last week and liked it big time.
    Got a few ready for epoxy and assembly, should be ready to swim them Sunday, early AM.
    White Water Monty 2.00 (WWM)
    Future Long Islander (ASAP)

  5. #5
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    Yours are great too looking good I'm glad they swim well I haven't been able to use any of them Ihave plugs all over so what do I do buy moreI started putting things in a safe place until I need them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_0506.jpg  

  6. #6
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    Wink stix

    Quote Originally Posted by surfstix1963 View Post
    Easier for sure but sometimes can still test your patience I would suggest buying extra belly,nose & tail grommets because when you drop them as I often do I usually find them a month later.The belly grommet is a.273 nose is.325 and the kits come w/.325 tail grommets I like the .425 if you want to know where I got them PM me.If you don't want to buy the extras make sure you keep them safe until you need them.


    1:I give them a quick sanding when I get them w/150 grit(some of the kits you need to be careful you don't sand to much especially the new Darter kit)You will also need for some kits long 1/8" and 5/32 bits sand them down and proceed to sealing(everybody does something different Val oil,BLO,epoxy,tung oil etc. )Its up to you.
    3epending on how you sealed them they may need different drying times I wait 2 weeks for the val oil after they come out and get the excess wiped off.The only caution I can give about val oil or any oil is don't soak them long or you will have anchors that oil soaks in the open wood pores very quick.5-10 mins.

    4:When dry you can prime them I use KILZ(red label)in the spray cans a couple coats(dry in between coats)then let that dry a couple of days so it stays on when you sand it again or you can do the dip method I'd rather spray the extra coats.
    5:Then you can paint them once you get the desired finish I don't like to go much past a 220 grit finish or the paint will not want to stick well rattle cans hand paint airbrush is up to you.(let the paint dry this is a must.)
    6:After the paint has dried a topcoat if you like is the next step(epoxy 30 min.I like Devcon hate locktite or you can use Etex which you can get in a craft store I've used both and I think warmed epoxy is better,Etex is easier to apply but a PITA to mix properly it has to be dead on or it will not dry it also has to be put on a spinner although I spin my epoxy to so it doesn't sag ,thin coats are the best way to do it heavy coats will just run or chip off when banged around I do one coat let dry then I assemble the grommets and swivels don't forget to put the swivels on the wire before you put the wire through to do your wraps(my favorite part no matter what I always have extra prebent wire around there are many ways to do it and I've tried them all its just a PITA for me and probably if you asked most guys they would tell you wire bending _ucks especially after you go through all that work and the wire chips the paint and epoxy off Do not try and get the wire too tight against the back of the plug just enough so it doesn't spin around to tight will crack the plug also make sure the nose loop is facing the way you need it to be before making the tailloop wraps
    7:If you make it this far your on your way I'm still steering clear of the lathe right now.Well if you have any questions give a shout I'll try and help ya out no expert here so take that into consideration.

    Nice work Monty.Can I stop now and buy yours.
    surfstix salty is selling his lure shop for 100,001 i think hes done thats what i heard

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedy View Post
    surfstix salty is selling his lure shop for 100,001 i think hes done thats what i heard
    Wow, that stinks.
    Its a shame.
    White Water Monty 2.00 (WWM)
    Future Long Islander (ASAP)

  8. #8
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    Wink saltys plugs

    i dont know if he was giving some **** on the other site or what then i talked to a guy and he said salty is done

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfstix1963 View Post
    Easier for sure but sometimes can still test your patience I would suggest buying extra belly,nose & tail grommets because when you drop them as I often do I usually find them a month later.The belly grommet is a.273 nose is.325 and the kits come w/.325 tail grommets I like the .425 if you want to know where I got them PM me.If you don't want to buy the extras make sure you keep them safe until you need them.


    1:I give them a quick sanding when I get them w/150 grit(some of the kits you need to be careful you don't sand to much especially the new Darter kit)

    2:You will also need for some kits long 1/8" and 5/32 bits sand them down and proceed to sealing(everybody does something different Val oil,BLO,epoxy,tung oil etc. )Its up to you.

    3epending on how you sealed them they may need different drying times I wait 2 weeks for the val oil after they come out and get the excess wiped off.The only caution I can give about val oil or any oil is don't soak them long or you will have anchors that oil soaks in the open wood pores very quick.5-10 mins.

    4:When dry you can prime them I use KILZ(red label)in the spray cans a couple coats(dry in between coats)then let that dry a couple of days so it stays on when you sand it again or you can do the dip method I'd rather spray the extra coats.

    5:Then you can paint them once you get the desired finish I don't like to go much past a 220 grit finish or the paint will not want to stick well rattle cans hand paint airbrush is up to you.(let the paint dry this is a must.)

    6:After the paint has dried a topcoat if you like is the next step(epoxy 30 min.I like Devcon hate locktite or you can use Etex which you can get in a craft store I've used both and I think warmed epoxy is better,Etex is easier to apply but a PITA to mix properly it has to be dead on or it will not dry it also has to be put on a spinner although I spin my epoxy to so it doesn't sag ,thin coats are the best way to do it heavy coats will just run or chip off when banged around I do one coat let dry then I assemble the grommets and swivels don't forget to put the swivels on the wire before you put the wire through to do your wraps(my favorite part no matter what I always have extra prebent wire around there are many ways to do it and I've tried them all its just a PITA for me and probably if you asked most guys they would tell you wire bending _ucks especially after you go through all that work and the wire chips the paint and epoxy off Do not try and get the wire too tight against the back of the plug just enough so it doesn't spin around to tight will crack the plug also make sure the nose loop is facing the way you need it to be before making the tailloop wraps

    7:If you make it this far your on your way I'm still steering clear of the lathe right now.Well if you have any questions give a shout I'll try and help ya out no expert here so take that into consideration.

    Nice work Monty.Can I stop now and buy yours.
    Incredible detail. Makes me want to run out a give it a try. Thanks

    BTW how are you feeling? I have a friend who broke his back and needed surgery. It took a long time for him to recover. I can't imagine the pain involved.

  10. #10
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    Wink stix

    Quote Originally Posted by surfstix1963 View Post
    Didn't hear anything but thats what duplicators are for if thats the case.Get turning.Start selling.
    dont have a duplicator they are $$$$$ i like to look at a plug and see if i can make it its more fun for me that way
    how ya feeling bro

  11. #11
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    Saltys kits are of top quality and I believe he is not going anywhere (Rumors at least from what I am told) his product is good always in stock and shipped very quickly you can get any answer you want about his kits on his site. I have bought them and will continue I'm working on a batch right now and have a list for the next already made.I don't have any issues w/ the product and if you do you can certainly get that taken care of.When someone is a stand up person I will be right behind them.

  12. #12
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    Rumors come and rumors go, every way the wind blows. Don't worry about it, he makes some good stuff, I think he will stick around.

  13. #13
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    Surfstix,
    From what I have seen with his kits, I agree 100%

    Quote Originally Posted by surfstix1963 View Post
    Saltys kits are of top quality and I believe he is not going anywhere (Rumors at least from what I am told) his product is good always in stock and shipped very quickly you can get any answer you want about his kits on his site. I have bought them and will continue I'm working on a batch right now and have a list for the next already made.I don't have any issues w/ the product and if you do you can certainly get that taken care of.When someone is a stand up person I will be right behind them.
    White Water Monty 2.00 (WWM)
    Future Long Islander (ASAP)

  14. #14
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    It seems as if he has had problems in the past w/ other sites from what I heard maybe jealous he puts out a consistently good product w/ good selection and they can't keep up IDK.For whatever the reason I will still continue to use the product it is of decent quality just my opinion.

  15. #15
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    This bass fought like a blue.
    Seems like this Salty Popper would have been a little big for him.
    I like these Salty Poppers a lot, real nice POP

    Click image for larger version. 

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    White Water Monty 2.00 (WWM)
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  16. #16
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    Very nice Monty I was going to ask how well they popped but you answered that question for me.

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