Sinkers

[buckethead]

Sinkers

Fishing sinkers don't come under the heading of "lures" but since they are widely used and many anglers mold their own, they should be included in this book. Also, making sinkers is similar in many ways to molding metal squids or jigs. By the nature of their use, sinkers are lost even more often than most fishing lures so it really pays to make your own.
There are many types, such as the ball or round, bell or dipsey, bank, diamond, oval, flat, rectangular, pencil, and pyramid. These are illustrated in Fig. 128 and will give you an idea of the kinds of sinkers used in fresh-and salt-water fishing.
You don't need much equipment. A gas or electric stove is required to melt the lead or other metal, and a ladle to hold and pour the molten lead. For making sinkers, especially the larger salt-water types, a big ladle is best. You also need lead which is usually used to make sinkers. Scrap lead can usually be obtained from a junk dealer. Alloys of lead and other metals, such as type metal, can also be used to make sinkers although you usually get best results with pure lead. Finally you need a mold of some sort.

One of the easiest sinkers to make is the flat, oval type used for fresh­water fishing or light salt-water angling. For a mold, use either an old tea­spoon or tablespoon, depending on how big and heavy you want the sinker. Then melt the lead and pour it into the spoon. See Fig. 129. You control the size (and weight) of the sinker by regulating the amount of lead you pour. If the sinker sticks to the spoon, just wipe the spoon with an oily rag. After the sinkers are poured and cool, you drill or punch a hole in one end for the fishing line and the sinkers are finished. These flat sinkers hold bot­tom very well and do not roll in the current or tide.
Another simple and quick way to make sinkers is with a potato mold. Just take a large potato, cut it in half, and then carve out a cavity for the type of sinker you want. Since this is a one-piece mold where you use only half the potato, you are naturally limited to certain types of sinkers. You can make rectangular, dipsey, pyramid, and cylindrical or pencil-type sinkers. Although you can pour these sinkers and then drill eyes in the lead for the fishing line, it is better to cut a small slot in the extreme bottom of the cavity and put a wire eye into it. Then pour the hot lead into the cavity and when it cools pull out the finished sinker. Such a potato mold, with the position of the wire eye, is shown in Fig. 130. When you pour the first sinkers you'll find that the moist potato will sputter and sizzle. But after you pour two or three sinkers it will dry out and then you'll have no more difficulty in this regard. Naturally, the potato mold doesn't last very long and after a while it dries up and shrivels too much to be of any use. However, a potato mold is inexpensive and so simple that you can make another in a matter of minutes.
Another inexpensive and simple mold to make is to use a chunk of hard wood and drill and carve out a sinker cavity. Here, too, the mold is one piece and you are limited to the types of sinkers made with the potato mold. You can make a good dipsey sinker mold from a wood block by drilling a cavity on one end with different-size drills. First start with a large-size drill and drill only a short distance below the surface. Then use a slightly smaller drill and go a bit deeper, then a still smaller one to reach the full depth you want. After which you use a knife and gouge the ridges from the cavity. Wood carving tools are also good for this work. Cut a small slot in the far end of the cavity to take a wire eye, and the mold is ready for use. Such a mold is shown in Fig. 131. It will last for quite a while before the hot metal burns it out too much.

Potato mold.Figure 130.

Wooden sinker mold.Figure 131.

If you have a drill press or an electric drill and other metal-working tools you can make such a one-piece mold from a piece of metal. Brass, copper, or bronze are easiest to drill and cut, but you can also use iron and drill out a sinker cavity similar to the wooden mold described above. Once made, such a mold will last forever and will make thousands of sinkers.
When making molds for other types of sinkers such as the ball or bank, you make a two-piece mold similar to the types made for jigs described in Chapter 7. These can be from plaster of Paris or water putty if you want temporary, inexpensive molds. In making such a two-piece mold, you can have two cavities and pour two sinkers at a time instead of just one. See Fig. 132. So when you get a cardboard box or make a wooden frame for such a mold make sure it is big enough.
As noted, the procedures in making a plaster of Paris or water putty mold are similar to those described in Chapter 7. However, instead of using the actual sinker for a pattern you should carve such a sinker pattern from soft wood, wax, or soap. The lead sinker itself cannot be used because it is too heavy and will sink into the wet plaster when it should float in the stuff. Remember that in making a two-piece sinker mold the pattern should be pushed only halfway into the wet plaster. When the first pouring hardens you grease the top and the part of the pattern still visible, and pour the other half.

Figure 132. Sinker mold with two cavities.

You can also make two-piece plaster of Paris molds to pour various types of trolling weights, as shown in Fig. 133. These trolling weights are usually cylindrical or keel shaped and have eyes on each end, to which the fishing line or leaders are attached. When making a two-piece mold to pour such trolling weights, you must cut out grooves at both ends of the cavity to take such wire eyes or barrel swivels on each end. Such a mold for making trolling sinkers is shown in Fig. 134.

Two types of trolling weights. Figure 133.

The potato, wood, and plaster molds described above will usually last long enough to make a couple of dozen or so sinkers. If you want to make a permanent mold which will last indefinitely, make a plaster mold of the type you want and take it to a foundry. If you have any special designs you want made this is certainly the best procedure. However, if you want a per­manent mold for a standard-type sinker you can buy a cast iron or alum­inum mold in almost any fishing tackle store. They can also be ordered by mail from some of the supply houses. Such permanent molds are inexpen­sive and will last for a long time.

Plaster mold for a trolling weight. Figure 134.

When using metal sinker molds, a few words of advice are in order. Make sure your mold is warm and dry, and heat the lead well above the melting point before pouring it into the mold. Otherwise, the molten metal will solidify and form imperfect sinkers before it has a chance to reach all parts of the mold. After a while you'll be able to tell what the best pouring tem­perature is by watching the color of the molten metal. When pouring sinkers and weights, remember that it's a good idea to scoop the scum and dirt off the top of the molten lead at regular intervals so that it pours with no trouble.


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN

[plugcrazy]

Anyone here make their own sinkers?

[storminsteve]

^^^^^I don't, but wanted to know if anyone has tried those sinkers that Greg Myerson is now selling. They are supposedly part of the rig he used to catch the world record bass. Someone told me they had rattles in them. How is it possible to make sinkers with rattles, a sinker with a bubble inside? And if you have used them do you have any feedback, do they catch bass? thanks

[finchaser]

Anyone here make their own sinkers?

yep 2 to 20 ounce

[J Barbosa]

I have several different molds.
pyramid from 1oz to 10oz
river coins from 2-4oz
banks 2 + 3oz
storm 3 - 6oz

[seamonkey]

. How is it possible to make sinkers with rattles, a sinker with a bubble inside? And if you have used them do you have any feedback, do they catch bass? thanks

I was interested in the answer to this to and wondered if anyone knows it?

[dogfish]

Some tips for sinker safety -

Lead Molding Instructions Before melting your own lead, read and understand all of these important safety rules! Some Safety Tips Molding lead is economical, fun, and easy when done properly. We suggest you follow these simple tips: 1. Always wear gloves and eye protection. 2. Always work in a well ventilated area! Use strong ventilation! 3. Keep the work area around the molten metal dry and free of moisture. This includes the crucible. Moisture expands when it comes into contact with hot metal. This expansion can cause "splatter" of the hot metal, and can cause serious burns. 4. NOTICE: We recommend a light coat of Vaseline on your hands, arms, and face. This will help prevent burns if "splatter" does occur. 5. Always wear a long sleeved shirt, long pants, and shoes. 6. Pre-heat all tools that come into contact with lead. ** See bottom of this page for additional important safety information! ** Let's Get Started! Pure lead melts at 621 degrees F., so you must be extremely careful. Lead is alloyed with tin which melts at slightly less temperature. Most lead is alloyed with antimony, which melts at slightly more temperature. The best lead to use is "caulking lead." Try to obtain as pure a lead as possible (not to exceed 6% antimony content). You will mold better quality parts, especially on smaller jigs. Where to Buy Lead You may use wheel weights or shot gun shot. Usually junk yards have lead. If you have any old jig heads that are no longer desirable or have broken hooks, you may also re-melt these. Melting Lead Do not use an acetylene torch. You may melt your tools and cause an accident! The most desirable and safest way is to use a quality lead melting furnace such as those sold by Dolphin Sports, Inc. Pre-Heating and Smoking Mold Place your mold on top of the furnace to pre-heat the mold while the lead is melting. Mold should sit on the mold sides with both sides in contact of the furnace. Take extra caution not to melt your plastic handles. These handles are made of PVC and are very strong, but will melt at high temperatures. If you melt your handles, it's your responsibility. Next, you may want to smoke your mold. This process is done with a candle and will enable your parts to be released from the mold easily. The mold cavities should be ugly black when properly smoked. Now let's check and clean the parting surface of your mold. Carefully inspect for dirt or lead build-up on the parting surface. Close mold and hold up to light to make sure mold closes completely or your parts will have "flash". Next, you must check to make sure your hooks, wires, and eyelets fit the mold and the mold closes completely. Casting Parts Now close your mold and make some trial parts (without any inserts). Do this 2 or 3 times until your mold produces a good finished part. A good finished part is a part without visible fracture lines in the lead. Be careful, without inserts your mold may leak through! Now put your insert in place. After closing the mold you may lay the mold on your table and gently tap with a piece of lead to seat inserts or hooks. Make a casting. As soon as your mold is full you can open it. Lead cools quickly and will not run out. Any time you stop casting metal for more than 2 minutes, put your mold back over the lead furnace (as in pre-heating) to keep the mold warm. Tips Eyelets sometimes are hard to load into mold. Rub a bar of soap on eyelet cavity. This will hold eyelet perfectly. After using your mold a while, it is normal to have lead build up on the parting surface. Remove this with a file. Be sure the file lays flat. Do not remove any of the mold material. The lead will load your file. Clean the file by rubbing the edge of a penny from side to side on it. Removal and Trimming Molded Parts Casting with larger hooks (spinner baits, larger jigs): These can easily be grabbed by hand and pulled out. Do not grab newly molded lead! If you cannot grab the hook or wire by hand, pliers must be used to grab the casting at the gate area and remove. Do not use screwdriver or pry casting loose with anything. You may damage your mold. Molding small jigs from a bottom pour pot: Bring the mold in firm contact with the spout- lift the handle- count 1-2-3-4 - release- and open the mold.
	WARNING: Melting lead and casting lead objects will expose you and others in the area to lead, which is known to cause birth defects, other reproductive harm, and cancer. Reducing Exposure: Lead contamination in air, in dust, and on your skin is invisible. Keep children and pregnant women away during use and until clean up is complete. Risk can be reduced -- but not eliminated -- with strong ventilation; washing hands immediately after use of these products before eating or smoking; and careful cleaning of surfaces and floors with disposable wipes, after lead dust has had a chance to settle. Use a lead - specific cleaner with EDTA, or a high - phosphate detergent (like most detergents sold for electric dishwashers), and bag wipes for disposal. http://www.hiltsmolds.com/MoldInstructions.htm

[dogfish]

^^^^^I don't, but wanted to know if anyone has tried those sinkers that Greg Myerson is now selling. They are supposedly part of the rig he used to catch the world record bass. Someone told me they had rattles in them. How is it possible to make sinkers with rattles, a sinker with a bubble inside? And if you have used them do you have any feedback, do they catch bass? thanks

storminsteve I haven't used them but a friend swears by them that they do help to catch. My friend fishes a lot of areas where the big bass hold in the Summer so he would probably catch large anyway. I guess it all boils down to what you believe in. An article I found about Greg and his sinkers.


Warren Buffett of the fishing world: Connecticut fisherman Greg Myerson repeatedly breaks own striped bass records

The 45-year-old electrician from North Branford, who began fishing at age 2, reached the pinnacle by methodically studying his prey and developing devices to lure the fish to him and, perhaps, change how people fish.

THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Monday, August 12, 2013, 2:39 PM

AP

Greg Myerson with one of the record striped bass he caught off the Connecticut coast.




NORTH BRANFORD, Conn. - When Greg Myerson heads out in his boat, some fishermen will follow him. The famous want to fish with him. He's the Warren Buffett of the fishing world, giving seminars in which he'll tell some but not all his secrets.
The Connecticut man has achieved a rare feat: He consistently catches striped bass 50 pounds and much larger. Myerson set the world record two years ago by catching a striped bass that weighed 81.8 pounds off the Connecticut coast. Last year he set the striped bass length record of about 44 inches. Just last month he caught a 73-pound bass.
"I'm just going to go ahead and say it: Greg Myerson is the greatest living striper fisherman," declared Rick Bach in an account last month in The Fish Report.


Chris Megan, owner of On the Water magazine, said he doesn't know anyone who's caught so many large striped bass.
Myerson reached the pinnacle by methodically studying his prey and developing devices to lure the fish to him and, perhaps, change how people fish.
"I've gotten it down to a science," Myerson said. "That's what all these great catches are attributed to, knowledge of the fish. You gotta think like them."

The 45-year-old electrician from North Branford began fishing at age 2. At 8, he used the feathers from his grandmother's dead parrot to make his first fly, catching a rare rainbow trout and realizing the thrill of catching a fish with something he made.
He studied fish, learning that striped bass feed on lobster and are drawn to them by the sound they make along the ocean floor. Myerson began trying to replicate that sound with a rattle he put in sinkers, at one point using discarded crack cocaine vials he cleaned up at work and filled with bearings and BBs.
His methods grew more sophisticated as he listened to crayfish in his 200-gallon aquarium with a stethoscope. He also used a sound meter to determine the decibel and frequency and then tweaked the sound of the rattle to mimic it as much as possible.


"It's the reason why I caught more big striped bass than anyone in the world," Myerson said. "It was my secret weapon for years."
Myerson said he's received patents for his rattling sinkers designed to lure the striped bass to fishermen and formed a company called Fish Call to sell the products.



Read more: http://www.nydailynews.com/sports/mo...#ixzz2errpdNzy

[storminsteve]

Very cool info dogfish, thanks!

[DarkSkies]

Bump for JB and blazin.
If anyone else has info to add, feel free....thanks.